Heritage and Preservation

The Authentic 518: Old School Italian Restaurants

January 5, 2022 By Cabrina McGinn

The Italian American community in New York City is as established and historic as the city itself. Luckily for us, many Italian Immigrants also ventured upstate to the Capital Region during the waves of European migration of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These communities quite literally built and shaped the cities we see today.

These once-bustling Italian neighborhoods still exist in pockets all over the 518. We set out to find authentic Italian restaurants that have been owned and operated by the same families for multiple generations, and have become beloved Capital Region institutions.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY. Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

Perreca’s

We’d be remiss not to start our journey in Schenectady’s Little Italy. This North Jay Street neighborhood was built by the Italian community that you can find here to this day.

Founded by immigrants Salvatore & Carmella Perreca in 1914, Perreca’s is one of the oldest continually operating restaurants in the Capital Region. The original brick oven, built more than a century ago, is still used today.

Currently owned and operated by the third generation, siblings Maria & Anthony Papa still make their famous bread using the Old World technique brought from Naples by their grandparents. Legend has it that, in more than 100 years, this oven has never gone out. Anthony explains that the bricks expand when hot. If they were to cool down and contract, the oven could collapse. He comes into the bakery every single day, 365 days a year to put coals on the fire. “I don’t think I’ve taken a vacation since I went on my honeymoon,” he says with a laugh.

Perreca's Eggs in Purgatory — Perreca’s signature dish, Eggs in Purgatory

“Okay, I’m gonna give one secret away,” says Anthony Papa. “[The oven] actually has been out, once.” He explains that at one point he had to let it cool and actually crawl inside to attempt a daring cleaning expedition.

“The history, and the lure of this area is old school Italian food, done right. My thought when I’m cooking is to always honor the neighborhood,” says Head Chef Neil. He should know! A Schenectady native, Neil was born and raised right here in this “Little Italy”.

MORE Perreca’s Italian Kitchen, 31 N Jay Street Schenectady, New York 12305, telephone 518-377-9800.

Caffe Italia

Caffe Italia’s Capellini Dugan: Shrimp, Lobster & Spinach with white wine garlic sauce

Every Albany native knows about Caffe Italia, an institution on Central Ave. In 1974, founder Joseph Romeo opened a small coffee shop on this spot. The local Italian community congregated, drank cappuccino, and picked up an Italian newspaper and other novelties from the Old Country.

Chef Paul Romeo Caffe Italia — Chef Paul “Big Pauly” Romeo in the kitchen at Caffe Italia

Albany’s original “Little Italy” on Madison Avenue was demolished to make way for the Empire State Plaza. As a result, many of those businesses and people were scattered. The Romeos coffee shop stayed where it was, and now and again, Joseph’s wife Jana (Joanne) would make any one of a variety of homemade dishes that were such a hit with customers. Just 6 years later, they bought the Arlington Luncheonette next door and opened Caffe Italia in 1980.

For more than 20 years and with no formal culinary training, Joseph and Jana welcomed the larger Albany community and built an institution that their children have carried on today, with Suzanne as accountant, Pauly as executive chef, and Michael & Maria running the front of house. With room for just 40 guests in the restaurants, Maria tells us of how her family has always prioritized their community above all else.

The Romeo Legacy

“The one thing my [late] father really wanted in this business was for people to relax and have it be an experience, similar to what you would find in your own home or in an Italian home. You don’t just sit and quickly eat. You sit around the table, you have a conversation, you get to know people. Over the years, we’ve built relationships with the people who frequent our restaurant. Now we have generations of families who’ve not only watched me grow but watched my kids grow as well.”

Luckily for our community some of the third generation of Romeo’s, most of whom are teenagers and young adults at the moment, are already learning the trade! And, even better, they’re now bottling their sauce, so you can experience a bit of Caffe Italia at home.

Caffe Italia, 662 Central Avenue, Albany, NY 12206-1645, telephone: (518) 459-8029

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe

Executive Chef Carmelo Lo Porto in the kitchen

Crowd at Lo Porto — Lo Porto is bustling, even on weeknights

Across the river in Troy, the Lo Porto family are award-winning 5th generation restaurateurs hailing from Sicily. Brothers Salvatore and Michael Lo Porto opened their restaurant in downtown Troy in the 80’s after having immigrated from Italy in the 60’s. Michael is well-known throughout the community as the face of the business. Until a few years ago, you could almost always find him visiting tables to get to know new guests or catch up with the stampede of regulars that have been coming back for 30-something years. His nephew Carmelo, currently the Executive Chef, tells us that he was in the kitchen when he was just 10 years old.

Private Room at Lo Porto — The private room at Lo Porto

Between Michael and Carmelo, the two Chefs hold around two-dozen credentials and awards. Unfortunately, Carmelo tells me that his uncle Michael has been sick for the past few years. As a result, he has not been as involved as usual. But even during Michael’s absence and throughout the pandemic, Carmelo says that their priority remains the same. “Our number one joy is putting people in the seats, talking to people and talk about our family. We actually see a lot of new faces now. Lots of people have moved up from the city. We see new faces, then start to see them again and again.”

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe, 85 Fourth Street, Troy, New York, 12180, telephone (518) 273-8546.

This article is part of our “The Authentic 518” Series done in collaboration with Cabrina McGinn and Straight Upstate.

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Stay tuned for more of our monthly The Authentic 518 articles – from hidden gems to Capital Region classics, we’re exploring all the spots that embody the authentic 518.

ACE Culinary Road Trip: 5 Amazing Latin-Owned Restaurants!

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Welcome to our celebration of Latin-owned restaurants in the Capital Region! Schenectady-based, Honduran-born artist Oscar Bogran and I explored a range of restaurants that are deeply inspired by Latin American heritage and culture. We tried things we’d NEVER dreamed of eating, and met amazing women who are running successful businesses and employing dozens of people. Not many of them would call themselves “chefs.” (They’d likely say they’re the “cook”.) But rest assured, they’re hand making some of the most fantastic artisan food in the Capital Region, at price tags everyone can afford.

Click to read much more about each location:

Casa Latina, Salvadorean and Mexican Cuisine in Hudson

Flores Family Restaurant, Salvadorean food in Schenectady

Empanada Llama, Peruvian cuisine in Albany

Angel’s Latin Restaurant, Dominican Cuisine in Catskill

Oaxaquena Triqui, Oaxacan Cuisine in Albany

Griselda and her daughters, Oaxaquena Triqui

“Artisan food” is a term used to describe food produced by non-industrialised methods. It’s often handed down through generations but now in danger of being lost.

And here’s what you get when you eat each of these restaurants:

Authenticity — the owners and chefs are dedicated to sharing their rich culture through food. They talked to us about each and every dish, thrilled to share their stories.

Affordability — we didn’t spend over $15 per person at any of these restaurants, and often, we spent under $10.

Family Operated — every restaurant included family in their operation.

Minority and Women Ownership — all are owned by people who were born in Latin American countries, and four out of five are headed by women.

pupusas — Pupusas at Flores Family Restaurant

Our Tips for Exploring Latin American Restaurants:

Ask Lots of Questions — Everyone really enjoyed explaining their offerings. Additionally, we often found specialties that aren’t even included on the menu

Speak Spanish, If You Know Any — Oscar was able to draw out conversations better than I was, for sure! He was able to engage people who weren’t that comfortable with their English, and he helped me, too, because I’m not comfortable in Spanish.

Don’t Judge a Book By Its Cover — Many of these settings are very humble. The storefronts are not fancy, the interiors are utilitarian, and they might not be in the “best” section of these downtowns. However, the adventure will be super fun, and the food is fantastic. We guarantee it.

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Flores Family Restaurant, Schenectady

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

For our trip to Flores Family Restaurant, Oscar and I were joined by Lorraine Morales Cox, Associate Professor of Visual Art at Union College. Lorraine’s father is Puerto Rican, so she knows Latin food. And, we talked about the textures and insights we get when a restaurant is Latin-owned.

Flores Family Restaurant is a bustling, Salvadorean-owned spot on State Street in Schenectady, with a lively lunch crowd. Our waitress, Kati, told us the midday rush is largely Spanish-speaking workers who have jobs in Schenectady, and don’t want to eat McDonald’s for lunch. The menu caters, she said, to the Caribbean styles of Latin food — it’s mainly Salvadorean, but there are additions from many other countries, so that customers can get both familiar and new foods.

Don’t Miss: The Roast Chicken and Pork

Kati helped us navigate the Flores specialties. “You have to get the pupusas, and the pollo la braza (roasted chicken),” she advised. It was great advice! Lorraine also ordered pernil — slow-roasted pork shoulder or leg. It’s a dish she grew up eating as a child, and it’s often served during Christmas. She loved Flores’ version, with its strong cilantro flavors. The meats were all extremely tender and delicious, and came served with beans, a soup, and plaintains. The pupusas are fantastic — especially the loroco (a Latin American vegetable from El Savador) and the ayote (zucchini) versions — and come with a wonderful, homemade, red sauce, along with rice and cabbage.

In addition to the food specialties, there are a wide variety of house-made drinks here, too. The horchata is delicious! There’s also a great tamarindo drink. Plus, there’s a Salvadorean specialty, marañon, which is the Salvadorian name for the cashew fruit. Jugo de marañon is cashew juice, a light sweet juice somewhat similar to guava juice and almond milk combined. Semilla de marañon is the seed, the actual cashew nut. We highly recommend all of them, and we may be experimenting with some additions of rum in the future.

pernil — Pernil with plaintains and beans!

“There’s an intimacy here,” Lorraine said. “It feels like they’re cooking and serving food for family.” And she added, “I’ve driven by this place so many times in the past. I had no idea I was ten minutes away from having pernil for dinner!” We’re hoping that lots more people make the same discovery.

Flores Family Restaurant, 1427 State St, Schenectady, (518) 723-2281. Open every day, 11am-10pm. (Note: their website says that they’re open for take-out only, but they are indeed open for dine-in, too.)

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5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco — Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

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The Authentic 518: Charming Small Towns on the Outskirts

November 17, 2021 By Cabrina McGinn

Brown’s Brewing Taproom in Hoosick Falls

Centuries before automobiles emerged as the singular mode of transport, the Industrial Revolution exploded upward from its epicenter of Manhattan, through the waterways that carve the landscape of Upstate New York. As a result of this rapid expansion, mill towns popped up along the creeks and streams that branch from the Hudson River.

Unlike many of the city centers in the Capital Region, the charming small towns in htis story haven’t been bulldozed for strip malls and high rises. Instead, they maintain the architecture and ambiance of the time in which they were founded. Lucky for us, they’re all just a short automobile ride away! So if you’ve ever had the urge to play out your Schitt’s Creek fantasy, or if you’re someone for whom ‘antique’ is a verb, plan your next day trip to one of these charming small towns!

Greenwich

Tour the amazing architecture all around the town square

Surprisingly, the town I hadn’t heard of before was the one with the most going on! Greenwich has some of the most beautiful historic homes in the Capital Region. Plus, there’s a bustling main street with restaurants, cafes, antique shops and craft stores.

Get your Christmas on at The Country Peddler

Formerly known as Whipple City, the town grew up around a cotton mill and continued to flourish until the mid 19th century. Be sure to take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhoods to see some of the best examples of 18th and 19th century architecture that Upstate New York has to offer.

There’s homemade white bread at Lynn’s Country Cafe

There’s great food and drink in Greenwich, too. Argyle Brewing offers tasting flights and food trucks. Nearby, Elsassers 111 offers Flammkuchen (German-style flatbread pizza). Stop into Greenwich Hardware to explore a selection of antique furniture and farming equipment, or to Wicked Wicks for handmade crafts, cappuccinos, and sip-n-paint classes. The Christmas Attic and the Country Peddler offer Christmas tchotchkes and fresh fudge year-round. And don’t miss Wallie’s, a Greenwich institution since 1929, serving patrons for almost a century in the heart of this beautiful village.

Your Greenwich Itinerary:

Kinderhook

Certainly the swankiest of the bunch, Kinderhook has drawn Michelin-star chefs, restaurateurs, and other impressive proprietors from New York City and Hudson in recent months. And, this small town was home to the nation’s eighth president, Martin Van Buren; you can still visit his estate house, Lindenwald, which is now a museum in his honor.

The food and architecture is awesome in Kinderhook. First, pop into the Saisonnier (French for farmhand) to enjoy some fresh beer and a delicious charcuterie board. Then, cross the town square to take a look at the Knitting Mill, a new project that will house several businesses in a renovated 1860’s knitting factory. The building is currently home to Morningbird and OK Pantry, with a restaurant, cocktail lounge, gallery, and apothecary line opening in the coming months. Down the street, Meghan Calcagno brings her family’s 150-year old bagel recipe from Brooklyn to Kinderhook with Broad St. Bagel Co. They’ve recently expanded to the spot next door with Focaccia Bakery, where they offer Old World Italian bread and pizza.

Your Kinderhook Itinerary:

Saisonnier
Broad St. Bagel Co. | Focaccia Bakery
DYAD Wine Bar
Cosmic Donuts
Morningbird | OK Pantry
Martin Van Buren Lindenwald

Hoosick Falls

The little village sits almost on the border of Vermont, just a hop, skip and a jump away from Bennington. The gazebo at the center of town is the spitting image of the one in Stars Hollow (the fictitious Connecticut town that serves as the backdrop for Gilmore Girls). Thankfully for us, the rest of the architecture in town follows suit.

View of the Walloomsac from Brown’s Brewing

Artists Norman Rockwell and Grandma Moses both lived in the area; their paintings are exhibited in museums around the world as examples of American Folk Art from Upstate New York and Vermont.

In more recent times, Brown’s Brewing brought fame to the area once more when they renovated a mill on the Walloomsac River. The beautiful spot now houses a brewery and full restaurant, drawing tourists from all over New York State. The Potter Hill Barn, a ‘primitive gift store’, is another classic Capital Region staple, operating for more than 25 years.

Meanwhile, young business Iron Coffee Co., has seen a booming clientele since launching their roastery in 2016. And, new favorite Hoosick Provisions is an absolute must-stop for anyone looking for their Rose Apothecary moment. You’ll find local cheeses, homemade pastries and regional produce, set against the backdrop of 19th century exposed brick.

Your Hoosick Falls Itinerary:

Schuylerville

Schuylerville is sometimes called America’s most historic village, because the Battle of Saratoga — known as the “Turning Point of the American Revolution” — was fought here. Later, in the 19th century, captains-of-industry arrived, harnessing the Fish Creek and Hudson River that made Shuylerville into a bustling township. Today, this quaint village remains a cultural hub of Upstate New York.

If you want good hikes and views of the waterways, Schuylerville is for you! Stop into Bound by Fate Brewing or The Basin Grill to enjoy a brew or bite on their beautiful patios overlooking the water. Then, get your steps in at Hudson Crossing Park and check out the beautiful Dix Bridge, a pedestrian bridge that crosses the Hudson River into Washington County.

Your Shuylerville Itinerary:

Schoharie

This charming village might be the Barn-Quilt capital of Upstate New York. On the main drag alone there are four businesses exhibiting large quilt-like signage on the outsides of their historic buildings.

As a result of its rural location, Schoharie is home to a number of regionally famous farms & farm stores. As a result, local produce, plants, prepared foods and artisan products abound. One of my favorites is The Carrot Barn, a Capital Region institution offering local produce and products from all over Upstate New York. (Surprise, surprise, the carrot cake is to die for). My family has been going to Wellingtons for years – run by retired couple Carolyn and Frederick. Their 45-acre farm offers landscaped gardens, artisan gifts and collectibles. And, there’s a tea room where Carolyn serves her signature gooey butter cake and island tea.

Generations, A Vintage Consignment Store

Stop by consignment shop Generations, which offers — dare I say it — the best selection of antiques that I’ve ever come across outside of the city centers. While you’re there, say hi to Ann, a lifelong Upstate New Yorker with years of stories and Schoharie history!

Your Schoharie Itinerary:

The Carrot Barn
Schoharie Valley Farms
The Apple Barrel Store & Cafe
Generations, A Vintage Consignment Shop
The Farmers Beef & Brew
Wellington’s Herbs & Spices

This article is presented in collaboration with Straight Upstate. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends.