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Maureen Sager

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Chef / Owner Griselda and her daughters

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco
Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

corn smut
Huitlacoche Huarache, aka “corn smut”

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

mole sauce
The sublime chicken mole

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

grasshoppers
Hand-carried grasshoppers from Oaxaca

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

Oscar has that “post-grasshopper” glow

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Casa Latina Pupusas Y Mas, Hudson

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

casa latina exterior

At Casa Latina, everything — from the guajillo salsa to horchata (a sweet, cinnamon-flavored rice drink) to the soft, warm corn tortillas — is made on site.  A few blocks off of swanky, expensive Warren Street, Casa Latina is an affordable oasis. There are four indoor tables, outdoor seating, and a parking lot (a rarity in Hudson). Mexican paper decorations and Frida Kahlo portraits spruce up the funky, functional décor. And, the food is prepared in sight of the tables. You’ll see for yourself, the Romero family knows how to cook, and they know how to hustle!

Casa Latina
Javier, our waiter extraordinaire

Our super-friendly waiter, Javier (the son of owner/chef Maria), walks us through the menu. We ask what’s the specialty of the house, and he says everyone loves the tacos (it’s true, they’re fantastic). But tonight we’re looking for something less usual, so he tells us to try the sopes ($8), a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a fried masa base with savory toppings. You’ve got your choice of cheese, beans, pork, or steak. They’re hearty and heartwarming, and will keep you filled up on a cold winter’s day. One of the cehfs, Alberto, is from the Puebla region of Mexico, and these sopes are his specialty.

black bean sopes
Black bean sopes, $8
Make Sure to Try: The Pupusas

While you’re here, make sure to try the pupusas ($3-$4), too. What are they, you ask? Pupusas are a delicious corn masa flatbread and the national dish of El Salvador. Owner and head chef Maria Romero is Salvadorean, and these recipes are ones that her familiy has made for generations. The pupusas are filled with one or more ingredients and served with curtido (cabbage slaw) and salsa. We tried the loroco sopes (loroco is small, green flower buds that are used for flavoring in Central America). They’re fantastic!

Oscar and the horchata
Oscar digs the horchata

Oscar declared that their homemade horchata ($3) was one of the best he’s ever had. “Every sip tastes like Christmas,” he said, thanks to the canela (cinnamon). The Romeros’ humble demeanor belies the accolades they receive from a huge range of visitors, and in just three years, they’ve become a Hudson institution.

Casa Latina Pupusas Y Más, 78 Green Street in Hudson, NY; (518) 653-1334. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm; closed Sundays.

Hart Cluett Museum’s Starlyn D’Angelo

August 4, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Hart Cluett Museum’s Executive Director Starlyn D’Angelo definitely likes a challenge! On March 30, 2021, she took on the head job at the Museum when it was unclear how the world would be moving forward. “I seem to work well when things are hard,” she said. Starlyn talked to ACE about how the Museum’s role has changed in the past year, and the unique opportunities and challenges they’ve faced.

Hart-Cluett’s Annual Holiday Greens Exhibit

How did the Hart Cluett Museum react to the pandemic?

When the pandemic hit, we initially had to lay off staff. But after a short time, they were back, and immediately began to document the events as they were happening. We asked people to document their experiences during the pandemic, about what life was like, what kind of challenges they had. That’s still up on our website now, for anyone who wants to share their story.

Kathy Sheehan
Hart-Cluett’s Educator, Kathy Sheehan

We also started documenting the Rally for Black Lives. It is unusual, in the museum world, to document current events. We’re trained not to focus too much on anything that’s happened in the past fifty years, mainly because we do not yet have perspective. Recently, though, there’s been a major shift toward thinking about documenting current events. We may not be interpreting them right now, but we certainly need to be collecting those stories before we lose them. This is a very exciting development for the Hart Cluett Museum

Also, our educator, Kathy Sheehan, was able to reach many more students during Covid by using remote learning. She did a program for 25 students in the room, and then another 700 students remotely. Ordinarily, transportation is expensive and becomes a barrier. The staff here has taken lemons and made them into lemonade.

What kinds of educational programming does Hart Cluett do?

Hart Cluett Education
Hart-Cluett’s In-School Education Program

Our core K-12 programs focus on the Underground Railroad and another on the Civil War. Generally, these classes are based in schools. Kathy Sheehan is a dynamo. She not only serves as our educator, and she is also the city historian and the county historian. Her adult education walking tours around Troy sell out all the time. They focus on all different topics, such as Life in the Gilded Age, Uncle Sam, Industry and more. She’s a fabulous engaging storyteller.

Hart Cluett Signage
Hart-Cluett’s Collection

Our Drinking History programs are really popular, and they continued online during the pandemic. Pre-Covid, people would gather in a bar, and Kathy would give a short program. While learning a little bit about history, they’d have a historic cocktail.

We also have exhibits at the Museum. Our current exhibit, “The Way We Worked”, was developed with the Smithsonian’s traveling exhibit program. Also, our curator mounts special exhibits each year. Next year’s exhibit will be on Protest and Reform. Amazingly, this topic was actually conceived of before the pandemic and the Rally for Black Lives.

What role did Hart Cluett have in preserving the Rally for Black Lives materials?

Our curators worked with the NYS Museum to collect some of the murals, and we also got a NY Humanities grant to fund the process of documenting the Rally for Black Lives. We’re in the process of doing this right now.

This is a different way of approaching historic documentation, so we’re learning our way, and making mistakes about how you have these conversations with parts of the community we haven’t engaged with previously. Our mission is to recognize every face and every story, which is very ambitious. So, we have to learn to make these conversations really comfortable and safe for every person that was involved.

How do you make sure that you hear from everyone?

The rally was about a problem we have in our communities that needs to be recognized. We want to hear from all of the people who organized the rally, not just the artists who painted the murals. 

Some of the panels are now at the New York State Museum. They present a real challenge for preservation because of the type of materials involved. They have what conservators would call an “inherent vice”, in that they self-destruct and the materials will break down over time.

We’ve taken high quality images so that they can be saved for the future. We can’t store all of them. I don’t know that we’re going to store that many panels because of limited space and it’s very difficult to preserve them. But it’s equally important to preserve the oral account of what was done to organize the event, and perspectives on what the event was like.

It’s important that the documenting be comprehensive, so that it’s not just the artists, or the politicians, or the march organizers. One of the thing that I learned recently was that there was an effort to register people to vote, and the organizers specifically didn’t want that to happen at the rally, for several reasons. It’s important for us to present a comprehensive story, regardless of whether things are conflicting or contradictory. We may have completely different perspectives depending on who we’re talking to.

Can you tell us how filming of “The Gilded Age” helps make the case for historic preservation?

Hart Cluett Exterior
The Hart Cluett Mansion on historic Second Street in Troy

The filming of “The Gilded Age” took place right outside our doors. It spotlights just how special this place is. You just don’t have architecture like this everywhere – it’s special and unique to Troy. It helps us have a pride. It’s special and unique to Troy. It’s an obvious economic benefit, but the quality of life impact is also really important.  We all want to be part of a community and feel like it’s a special place. The architecture in Troy gives us that.

When you tear down these buildings, you’re creating a needless environmental hazard. In many cases, you  can’t reconstruct them. You can’t get the wood in these dimensions anymore, you can’t get the artisans to do the ironwork and woodwork. This creates another opportunity for us. If we train people  to maintain these historic buildings, we’re creating jobs in the trades. There’s such a multitude of reasons to concentrate on historic preservation.

Learn more about Hart Cluett via its website, FB, and IG.

Behind the Scenes At “The Costumer”

July 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

In 2016, Erik and Bonnie Johnsen moved from Massachusetts and bought The Costumer, a 100-year-old, full-service costume and makeup business with locations in Albany and Schenectady. The Johnsen’s are passionate about the positive impact of scholastic theater! Read on as Bonnie takes us behind the scenes at this creative — and mission driven — business.

How and why did you buy a costuming company?

Tyler Johnsen and mom, Bonnie

Erik and I are theater parents. Our son, Tyler, was a very, very introverted little boy. Teachers tried everything to get him out of his shell. So, in fifth grade, he signed up for chorus, and he ended up with a solo. He blew us away! That was his stepping stone into theater, winning awards and leads in every show in high school. He just completely took off and it changed his life.

So, when Erik wanted to get out of the corporate world and saw this opportunity to buy a small business, we knew it was the right thing. We believe completely in this mission because know what scholastic theater can do for a young child’s confidence. It’s fabulous.

Erik Johnsen
Erik Johnsen, President of The Costumer

Tyler is 22 now and studied theater and business in college. He’s now getting his Masters degree, and helps us in the summers. We all love it. This business is truly something we’re passionate about.

What’s the history of The Costumer?

Costumes from Into the Woods

The business was started in Schenectady in 1917 by a woman named Anna White. She was trading handmade costumes in exchange for dance lessons for her daughter. Since then, it’s changed owners four times. The Sheehan family were performers and teachers, and they saw the niche of school productions. They believed that kids deserved Broadway-caliber costumes.at affordable prices.

Constructing costumes for Something Rotten!

Our head designer has been with the business for over 30 years, with experience from Broadway. She creates costumes for all of the new shows, and makes sure that they are shipable and durable, because they’re for kids. We’re one of the few businesses that customize our products for all ages, even elementary schools. It used to be that high schools were the main customers for high-end costumes, but now we see it for all ages, even young children. So, the costumes need to be tailored to suit.

What kind of jobs and careers are there at The Costumer?

There are a wide variety of jobs here, and most of us wear a lot of hats. For the costumes, we need seamstresses to construct new products and tailor the costumes for our orders. Everything needs to be laundered, pressed, and packed, so we’ve got people who handle all of that.

Shrek costume
The Costumer’s annual catalog photo shoot

Plus, we’ve got a retail establishment, so there are others who meet and talk to customers. And, there’s of course the office and administrative staff, who are doing bookkeeping and a variety of other things. I handle some of the marketing, and social media is done by retail manager. We’re all multi taskers. At the height of the theater season and during Halloween, we’ve got about 40 employees on staff.

Many businesses and organizations have expressed a need for tailors and seamstresses. Have you, too, had trouble finding people?

Yes, it’s very difficult to find trained seamstresses. I think it might be because they’ve largely stopped teaching Home Ec in schools, and that’s the way that a lot of us learned to sew. It’s definitely become a dying art.

Cosplay

Thankfully, though, they do teach sewing in college theater programs. Tyler knows how to sew for his theater degree, and we’ve hired other people from his school. But the best source of seamstresses has been young people who are very active in the cosplay community (the practice of dressing up as a character from a movie, book, or video game). Young people are making their own costumes. Cosplay and Comicon are absolutely enormous businesses, and sewing is a great skill for young people to have.

You’ve got a move in your future?

Yes! We are moving our retail location over to Mohawk Harbor, and are looking at an August opening.  We’re very excited. The Harbor has got the whole “live, work, play” environment. There are restaurants and the casino and the amphitheater. It’s a fun place, and we’re a fun company. Our employees are excited about it, too, After a difficult year and a half, it’s nice to have something great to look forward to.

ACE Craft Beverage Spotlight: Left Bank Ciders, Catskill

May 31, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Co-Founders Tim Graham and Anna Rosencranz, with Left Bank Ciders mascot, Abraham

Left Bank Ciders opened its doors on July 10th, 2021, which wasn’t an obvious time to start a brand new tap room business. But partners Tim Graham, his wife Anna Rosencranz, and their friend Dave Snyder, had an opportunity they couldn’t pass up. “The space was so good,” Graham said. “We just had to give it a go.”

Congressman Antonio Delgado talks cider with co-founder Dave Snyder

The 3000 square foot basement space at 150 Water Street in Catskill was rustic and unfinished, “like a subterranean wine cave,” said Graham, who had been home brewing for several years before making the leap to a full-scale operation. “The temperatures are super stable, which is great for making cider. There probably weren’t a lot of other businesses that would love being in a basement, but for us, it’s perfect.”

They poured concrete floors and made the furniture themselves — a perfect complement to the rustic, lime washed brick and beams. There’s also a spacious outdoor patio that overlooks the Catskill Creek, with a great view of the Hudson Valley sunsets.

The cider is made on site from wild apples they forage themselves, along with stock from “friends and acquaintances who give us everything they can’t use,” said Rosencranz. “Everything else, we buy in from local suppliers.” There are usually 8 or more varieties on tap; read their origin stories here. My personal favorite: the Spyser — a co-ferment made with apples and honey. It’s smooth, dry, and just a bit tart. My perfect Sunday night go-to!

baby at left bank ciders

You’ll notice that there’s a fourth founder crawling and playing at Left Bank. Tim and Anna had a baby, Abraham, in May 2020, just two months before they opened mid-pandemic. So, with Abe snuggled in a Baby Bjorn, they were fearlessly tending the bar and making cider with an amazingly cheerful newborn on board.

Where to Find Left Bank Ciders

Drop by the tap room to relax by the creek! It might be a bit tricky to find Left Bank Ciders on your first try, so: If you’re on Main Street, you can find Left Bank Ciders by walking down the alley next to New Century Chinese Food (Left Bank posts a blackboard sign on Main Street to guide you down the alley, on the days that they’re open). Or, if you’re on River Street, use Google Maps or Ways, and park in the lot on the right side of Left Bank’s patio.

Once you’re there, you’ll find local beers on tap and by the can, and a nice wine selection, in addition to the killer cider. Looking for dinner, too? Grab some takeout from nearby Avalon Lounge (they’ll deliver!) or Mermaid Cafe and dine on the Left Bank Cider porch. It’s one of my very favorite ways to enjoy Catskill.

Left Bank Ciders has also begun distributing their products locally, in Hudson, Catskill, Millerton, Coxsackie and Saugerties, and they’ve got a grab-and-go section at the tap room.

Left Bank Ciders is located at 150 Water Street, Catskill, NY 12414. You can find their hours on Instagram @leftbankciders and on their website.

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