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5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

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Chef / Owner Griselda and her daughters

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco
Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

corn smut
Huitlacoche Huarache, aka “corn smut”

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

mole sauce
The sublime chicken mole

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

grasshoppers
Hand-carried grasshoppers from Oaxaca

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

Oscar has that “post-grasshopper” glow

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

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5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Casa Latina Pupusas Y Mas, Hudson

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casa latina exterior

At Casa Latina, everything — from the guajillo salsa to horchata (a sweet, cinnamon-flavored rice drink) to the soft, warm corn tortillas — is made on site.  A few blocks off of swanky, expensive Warren Street, Casa Latina is an affordable oasis. There are four indoor tables, outdoor seating, and a parking lot (a rarity in Hudson). Mexican paper decorations and Frida Kahlo portraits spruce up the funky, functional décor. And, the food is prepared in sight of the tables. You’ll see for yourself, the Romero family knows how to cook, and they know how to hustle!

Casa Latina
Javier, our waiter extraordinaire

Our super-friendly waiter, Javier (the son of owner/chef Maria), walks us through the menu. We ask what’s the specialty of the house, and he says everyone loves the tacos (it’s true, they’re fantastic). But tonight we’re looking for something less usual, so he tells us to try the sopes ($8), a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a fried masa base with savory toppings. You’ve got your choice of cheese, beans, pork, or steak. They’re hearty and heartwarming, and will keep you filled up on a cold winter’s day. One of the cehfs, Alberto, is from the Puebla region of Mexico, and these sopes are his specialty.

black bean sopes
Black bean sopes, $8
Make Sure to Try: The Pupusas

While you’re here, make sure to try the pupusas ($3-$4), too. What are they, you ask? Pupusas are a delicious corn masa flatbread and the national dish of El Salvador. Owner and head chef Maria Romero is Salvadorean, and these recipes are ones that her familiy has made for generations. The pupusas are filled with one or more ingredients and served with curtido (cabbage slaw) and salsa. We tried the loroco sopes (loroco is small, green flower buds that are used for flavoring in Central America). They’re fantastic!

Oscar and the horchata
Oscar digs the horchata

Oscar declared that their homemade horchata ($3) was one of the best he’s ever had. “Every sip tastes like Christmas,” he said, thanks to the canela (cinnamon). The Romeros’ humble demeanor belies the accolades they receive from a huge range of visitors, and in just three years, they’ve become a Hudson institution.

Casa Latina Pupusas Y Más, 78 Green Street in Hudson, NY; (518) 653-1334. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm; closed Sundays.

The Authentic 518: Charming Small Towns on the Outskirts

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Brown’s Brewing Taproom in Hoosick Falls

Centuries before automobiles emerged as the singular mode of transport, the Industrial Revolution exploded upward from its epicenter of Manhattan, through the waterways that carve the landscape of Upstate New York. As a result of this rapid expansion, mill towns popped up along the creeks and streams that branch from the Hudson River.

Downtown Schoharie

Unlike many of the city centers in the Capital Region, the charming small towns in htis story haven’t been bulldozed for strip malls and high rises. Instead, they maintain the architecture and ambiance of the time in which they were founded. Lucky for us, they’re all just a short automobile ride away! So if you’ve ever had the urge to play out your Schitt’s Creek fantasy, or if you’re someone for whom ‘antique’ is a verb, plan your next day trip to one of these charming small towns!

Greenwich

Tour the amazing architecture all around the town square

Surprisingly, the town I hadn’t heard of before was the one with the most going on! Greenwich has some of the most beautiful historic homes in the Capital Region. Plus, there’s a bustling main street with restaurants, cafes, antique shops and craft stores.

Get your Christmas on at The Country Peddler

Formerly known as Whipple City, the town grew up around a cotton mill and continued to flourish until the mid 19th century. Be sure to take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhoods to see some of the best examples of 18th and 19th century architecture that Upstate New York has to offer.

There’s homemade white bread at Lynn’s Country Cafe

There’s great food and drink in Greenwich, too. Argyle Brewing offers tasting flights and food trucks. Nearby, Elsassers 111 offers Flammkuchen (German-style flatbread pizza). Stop into Greenwich Hardware to explore a selection of antique furniture and farming equipment, or to Wicked Wicks for handmade crafts, cappuccinos, and sip-n-paint classes. The Christmas Attic and the Country Peddler offer Christmas tchotchkes and fresh fudge year-round. And don’t miss Wallie’s, a Greenwich institution since 1929, serving patrons for almost a century in the heart of this beautiful village. 

Your Greenwich Itinerary:
  1. Argyle Brewing
  2. Elsassers 111
  3. Lynn’s Country Cafe
  4. Greenwich Hardware Antiques
  5. Wicked Wicks Creations & More
  6. Wallie’s
  7. The Country Peddler Shoppes

Kinderhook

Certainly the swankiest of the bunch, Kinderhook has drawn Michelin-star chefs, restaurateurs, and other impressive proprietors from New York City and Hudson in recent months. And, this small town was home to the nation’s eighth president, Martin Van Buren; you can still visit his estate house, Lindenwald, which is now a museum in his honor.

The food and architecture is awesome in Kinderhook. First, pop into the Saisonnier (French for farmhand) to enjoy some fresh beer and a delicious charcuterie board. Then, cross the town square to take a look at the Knitting Mill, a new project that will house several businesses in a renovated 1860’s knitting factory. The building is currently home to Morningbird and OK Pantry, with a restaurant, cocktail lounge, gallery, and apothecary line opening in the coming months. Down the street, Meghan Calcagno brings her family’s 150-year old bagel recipe from Brooklyn to Kinderhook with Broad St. Bagel Co. They’ve recently expanded to the spot next door with Focaccia Bakery, where they offer Old World Italian bread and pizza. 

Your Kinderhook Itinerary:
  1. Saisonnier
  2. Broad St. Bagel Co. | Focaccia Bakery
  3. DYAD Wine Bar
  4. Cosmic Donuts
  5. Morningbird | OK Pantry
  6. Martin Van Buren Lindenwald

Hoosick Falls

The little village sits almost on the border of Vermont, just a hop, skip and a jump away from Bennington. The gazebo at the center of town is the spitting image of the one in Stars Hollow (the fictitious Connecticut town that serves as the backdrop for Gilmore Girls). Thankfully for us, the rest of the architecture in town follows suit.

View of the Walloomsac from Brown’s Brewing

Artists Norman Rockwell and Grandma Moses both lived in the area; their paintings are exhibited in museums around the world as examples of American Folk Art from Upstate New York and Vermont.

In more recent times, Brown’s Brewing brought fame to the area once more when they renovated a mill on the Walloomsac River. The beautiful spot now houses a brewery and full restaurant, drawing tourists from all over New York State. The Potter Hill Barn, a ‘primitive gift store’, is another classic Capital Region staple, operating for more than 25 years.

Meanwhile, young business Iron Coffee Co., has seen a booming clientele since launching their roastery in 2016. And, new favorite Hoosick Provisions is an absolute must-stop for anyone looking for their Rose Apothecary moment. You’ll find local cheeses, homemade pastries and regional produce, set against the backdrop of 19th century exposed brick.

Your Hoosick Falls Itinerary:
  1. Walloomsac Taproom & Brewery
  2. The Potter Hill Barn
  3. Iron Coffee Co.
  4. Hoosick Provisions
  5. Byte  
  6. Eagle Bridge Antique Center

Schuylerville

Saratoga Battleground

Schuylerville is sometimes called America’s most historic village, because the Battle of Saratoga — known as the “Turning Point of the American Revolution” — was fought here. Later, in the 19th century, captains-of-industry arrived, harnessing the Fish Creek and Hudson River that made Shuylerville into a bustling township. Today, this quaint village remains a cultural hub of Upstate New York.

If you want good hikes and views of the waterways, Schuylerville is for you! Stop into Bound by Fate Brewing or The Basin Grill to enjoy a brew or bite on their beautiful patios overlooking the water. Then, get your steps in at Hudson Crossing Park and check out the beautiful Dix Bridge, a pedestrian bridge that crosses the Hudson River into Washington County.

Your Shuylerville Itinerary:
Tide & Purl
  1. Bound by Fate Brewing Co.
  2. Tide & Purl
  3. Amigos Cantina
  4. The Basin Grill
  5. Hudson Crossing Park
  6. Saratoga Battlegrounds

Schoharie 

Downtown Schoharie

This charming village might be the Barn-Quilt capital of Upstate New York. On the main drag alone there are four businesses exhibiting large quilt-like signage on the outsides of their historic buildings.

Wellington’s co-owner, Carolyn

As a result of its rural location, Schoharie is home to a number of regionally famous farms & farm stores. As a result, local produce, plants, prepared foods and artisan products abound. One of my favorites is The Carrot Barn, a Capital Region institution offering local produce and products from all over Upstate New York. (Surprise, surprise, the carrot cake is to die for). My family has been going to Wellingtons for years – run by retired couple Carolyn and Frederick. Their 45-acre farm offers landscaped gardens, artisan gifts and collectibles. And, there’s a tea room where Carolyn serves her signature gooey butter cake and island tea.

Generations, A Vintage Consignment Store

Stop by consignment shop Generations, which offers — dare I say it — the best selection of antiques that I’ve ever come across outside of the city centers. While you’re there, say hi to Ann, a lifelong Upstate New Yorker with years of stories and Schoharie history! 

Your Schoharie Itinerary:

This article is presented in collaboration with Straight Upstate. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com 

Cabrina McGinn

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends. 

Up Close and Personal with DJ HollyW8D

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I caught up with DJ HollyW8D recently to check in on the current status of the underground social scene and find out a little more about what makes this former Brooklynite-come-Upstate man tick. I believe I first met him at an event Cory Nelson was throwing back in the Troy Kitchen days but this is the first time we have got to have a little heart to heart.

Please introduce yourself! How long have you been a DJ and do you do it full time? Any other gigs you’re holding down to pay the bills?

My name is Mario Johnson, aka DJ HollyW8D. I am originally from Brooklyn, NY. I found my way to the Capital District to play football at Hudson Valley Community College. After that I graduated from UAlbany with a degree in Communications & Rhetoric. I started my DJ journey at WCDB 90.9 FM in 2016 and haven’t looked back since.

I have been a full time DJ since 2017. I incorporate different aspects into my lifestyle to help pay the bills such as teaching DJ lessons along with throwing events and helping other artists with their business and branding.

I know from personal experience that you bring a lot of excitement to an event. What’s your motivation?

My motivation is my mother who worked very hard to get me to where I am today. As a first generation US-born Jamaican descendant, I felt pressure to make my family proud. Besides wanting to be successful for myself it is also for my family and to inspire my peers.

Last year was rough for performers with limitations on live events. Has your calendar gotten back to
normal this year? How is it different?

Everyone was eager to get back outside so that helped a lot. Attendees being cautious post pandemic has still been a factor. Shifting to in person experiences and taking the brand digital has definitely helped out. Less venues want to take the chance of having large crowds within their space now.

How has the last year changed your craft?

Last year showed me how powerful having a digital footprint is within social media. From throwing virtualshowcases (@Hous3chella : Instagram LIVE) to teaching virtual DJ lessons. These days, you must never leave a stone unturned.

Any upcoming events you would like to plug?

I started doing a lot of collaborations on events this year, Friday November 12th I will be co – hosting an ‘All About My Business’ networking event at the ground up cafe in Albany, NY. The event is black and brown focused but open to all who are looking to increase their circle of like minded individuals.

Additionally, I will be bringing some energy to this month’s Etrice Gallery opening in Downtown Albany. ‘HIATUS’ will be on Saturday November 20 th featuring Albany artist Jalaun Taylor. Roll in, network and feel the vibes. “It`s more than music…and I am more than just a DJ.”

EDITORS NOTE: Keep an eye out for the ongoing series of variety themed events across the Capital Region that Mario curates called ‘More Music Less Violence.’
LINKTR.EE: /Hollyw8d
FB / IG: @DJHollyW8D

The Authentic 518: Can’t-Miss Farms to Visit This Fall

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Any Capital Region native knows that apple trees are as deeply rooted in our area’s history as they are in our soil. New York’s first known apple orchards were planted by Peter Stuyvestant in 1647 — long before New York was even a colony, let alone a state.  

Today, Upstate New York is a reigning apple capital of the world, boasting orchards and farms that have operated by the same families for hundreds of years. And, our farms draw thousands of agritourists from all over the world. 

We explored some of the region’s best farms to visit this Fall. Some offer family fun, others, farm brews and hard ciders. ALL are family owned and committed to keeping our autumn traditions in Upstate New York alive and well. 

Indian Ladder Farms

Indian Ladder Farms has been owned and operated by the Ten Eyck Family for more than 100 years. Originally founded as a Dairy Farm in 1916, the land has seen many uses and iterations over the last century. Laurie Ten Eyck runs the farm today, along with her husband Dietrich, and her brother Peter Gansevoort Ten Eyck III.

The farm has always been known locally for their orchards, petting zoo, and farm store/cafe. In recent years, however, the opening of their Brewery & Cidery business has seen a tremendous uptick in visitors from far and wide. Dietrich, who manages the Cidery-Brewery business, tells us that their beer and cider have become so popular that they can’t make it fast enough to satisfy both the walk-in customers and their wholesale distributors. They’re rapidly expanding their brewery to be able to produce 600 gallons at a turn. And, they’re adding an additional event space that will be used for weddings and retreats. 

With their animals, orchards, and biergarten, Indian Ladder Farms is great for families or an outing just for adults. They have fire pits for evening gatherings and their Brewery/Cidery now has indoor seating & a full menu, open year-round. 

Offerings: 

  • Pick your own apples
  • Farm Brewery & Cidery
  • Full Food Menu
  • Cider & Doughnuts
  • Pumpkin Patch
  • Farm Animals
  • Farm Store

Ellms Family Farms

The Ellms family have owned and operated this farm since the 1980’s, originally growing Christmas Trees. They’ve now expanded to pumpkins, corn, and more than 40 ‘agratainment’ activities for kids and adults alike. Garth Ellms, who runs the farm with his two elder sisters after having taken it over from their parents in 2005, tells us that the farm spans 240 acres of land, and draws anywhere from 1000-2000 people per day during the Fall Season.

Running the farm is a family affair for the Ellms. Currently there are eight grandchildren, many of whom have buildings named after them at the farm. Some even run ticket sales for the train rides all by themselves. They make around 1600 Cider Doughnuts per day. While I must say there was some razor-thin competition, they were my favorite of all of the cider doughnuts I tried while researching this article. 

Ellms is perfectly geared towards children and families. They even do children’s birthday parties and offer an evening drive-through light show with cider doughnuts and kettle corn! 

Offerings: 

  • 40 Children’s Activities 
  • Cider & Doughnuts
  • Full Food Menu w/ alcoholic beverages
  • Pumpkin Patch
  • Farm Animals
  • Farm Store

Saratoga Apple 

The Darrow family has been growing apples in Schuylerville for 5 generations, and their Farm Store might just be the busiest in all of Saratoga County – open 7 days a week. They stock all kinds of local products and produce, and make cider doughnuts year-round! In recent years they’ve also launched a hard cider business and tasting room, offering two of their own hard ciders among other local brews, meads, and spirits.

Perhaps their most unique and authentic product, however, is their old-school traditional cider called ‘Scrumpy,’ made using the natural yeast on the apples. There are no added sulfites, and no added sweeteners, resulting in a very dry hard cider (and my personal favorite). 

Saratoga Apple offers some of the most beautiful views in the Capital Region, as well as some of the best selection of local products. Their tasting room has lots of options, making this a great destination for adults. 

Offerings: 

  • Hard Cider & Tasting Room 
  • Pick your own apples
  • Cider & Doughnuts
  • Pumpkin Patch
  • Farm Store

Windy Hill Orchard East

Run by the Goold Family since 1910, Windy Hill Orchard East was purchased and expanded in 2019 by Scott and Todd Seeberger. Like the Goolds, this family aren’t new to the apple business. Since then, the Seeberger family have remodeled the Farm Store, added fire pits and Adirondack chairs throughout the orchard, and started doing wagon rides, corn mazes, and other children’s attractions.

Their orchards span 116 acres and offer around 12 different varietals of apples, while their farm store offers homemade fudge, cheese, and cider doughnuts among other local goods. On Saturdays and Sundays throughout October, Windy Hill East is hosting ‘Fall Family Days,’ with live music, food trucks, and a craft-vendor market. They’ve also recently added a Cidery & Winery business, and are renovating the 120-year-old barn on the property to house their tasting room someday. 

Windy Hill East is great for both families or adults – their Fall Family Days offer free admission and are a perfect way to spend a fall afternoon with live music, food trucks, and local vendors! 

Offerings: 

  • Wine & Cider 
  • Pick your own apples
  • Cider & Doughnuts
  • Pumpkin Patch
  • Farm Store

Golden Harvest

The orchards on route 9 in Valatie have existed since at least the 1870’s, long before Daniel and Madeline Zinke would purchase them and open the first Farm Stand on this spot in 1957, naming it ‘Golden Harvest’.

Today, their grandson Alan Grout and his sons own and operate the farm. Golden Harvest has now expanded to include a bakery, a distillery, and a smokehouse grill. The farmstand is one of the largest and most impressive in the area; with everything from eggs, to baked goods and local jams & honey, you could almost do a full grocery shop here! Their bakery offers fresh cider doughnuts, unique pastries and 9 types of pies. They also specialize in custom, large scale bakery orders – in fact they supplied the Presidential Inauguration in 2013. Their Distillery offers tastings and a full cocktail menu as well as full bottles for purchase.

We got a chance to speak with Derek Grout, who was the first to receive a NYS Farm Distillery license when he founded Harvest Spirits in 2007. They boast nine spirits, “never made with grain, never sweetened with sugar, never artificially flavored or colored, never charcoal filtered, and never blended with products distilled elsewhere.” Outdoors, they offer ample seating, a fire pit, and corn-hole. While Golden Harvest is not offering pick-your-own this year due to extensive re-planting and remodeling of their orchards, they are still offering over 20 varietals of apples for purchase.

This farm is a must-stop for their Distillery, Bakery, and Smokehouse! A great spot to spend the day shopping an extensive offering of local produce/products, or spend an evening with a BBQ dinner, sipping craft spirits and cocktails in their garden. 

Offerings: 

  • Farm Distillery & Tasting room
  • Harvest Smokehouse – Full Menu
  • Cider & Doughnuts
  • Pumpkin Patch 
  • Farm Store

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

This article is the first of our The Authentic 518 Series done in collaboration with Cabrina McGinn and Straight Upstate.

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com 

Stay tuned for more of our monthly The Authentic 518 articles – from hidden gems to Capital Region classics, we’re exploring all the spots that embody the authentic 518.

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