Food and Beverage

CAP Region 5: Vegan / Vegetarian Spotlight

March 1, 2022 By Susie Powell

Susie Davidson Powell | Food Writer and Times Union Dining Critic
Special to the Upstate Alliance for the Creative Economy

The plant-based food industry has boomed in recent years with myco-protein chik’n and beet burgers that bleed, branded with names like Beyond and Impossible suggesting we’re scaling new heights. The pandemic only sharpened growth with renewed interest in health conscious eating, efforts to reduce animal consumption (hello, meatless Mondays), and awareness of strained farm-to-table supply chains coupled with new direct-to-consumer options. Suddenly, plant-based options surged on mainstream restaurants’ simplified, post-pandemic menus and customers continue to feed the demand for meatless options when dining out.

Downstate, we’ve seen a Michelin star and James Beard award nominations for a vegan restaurant, chef and veg-driven hospitality group. Upstate, the Capital District is enjoying its own share of the action with more growth in the vegan/vegetarian dining scene in two years than the last ten. And they aren’t they aren’t doing it lightly. From the growing vegan list, we’ve picked five eateries putting flavor, fermentation and local farms at the forefront of their plant-based creations.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY.
Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

BAR VEGAN | Center Square | Albany

From Lark St. Poke to the Loft 205, sibling owners Will and Mary Phan have opened downtown spots that earn a loyal crowd. But after closing their popular college bar, LAX, during the pandemic, Will was inspired by vegan restaurant Avant Garden in Manhattan and reinvented the LAX space as a vegan restaurant, including an entirely vegan bar. Partnering with a local florist, the place has been beautifully transformed with shiny white subway tiles, leafy planters and trailing vines, and the menu offers shareable plates that won’t break the bank. From a kitchen carefully separated to avoid cross contamination with the Loft restaurant upstairs, try the sweet potato tempura sushi roll, edamame potstickers filled with a luxurious edamame puree (choose steamed or fried), stuffed avocado and bang bang cauliflower florets. All wines and spirits are vegan or organic.

Bar Vegan | 205 Lark Street | Albany NY | Phone: 518.818.0833

TAKE TWO CAFE | Schenectady

Take Two picks up where much missed Shades of Green on Lark Street left off years ago. Owner Chelsea Heilman has created a gorgeous garden-inspired oasis on Schenectady’s State Street where foot traffic is high and it’s hard to miss her hand-painted sidewalk tables. An avid traveler, Heilman serves a chickpea curry, inspired by one from Iceland, along with a replica avocado-pesto-feta-walnut toast and a tofu scramble breakfast burrito with chorizo, chile, and homefries both inspired by cafes in Melbourne, Australia, and Colorado.

Among the most labor intensive ingredients is Heilman’s faux lox salmon. Carrots are given a 32-hour bath in a seaweed, soy and caper brine for umami bite – perfect to pile on a bagel with vegan cream cheese. Stop by and join an all-day crowd pouring in for sandwiches and vegan pastries. Fix your coffee as you like: A counter refrigerator is jammed with all the plant milks from oat to almond.

Take Two Cafe | 433 State Street | Schenectady | Phone: 518.280.9670

Meadowlark @ Troy Beer Garden | Troy

As if this stylish, leafy, downtown cocktail bar could get any greener, Meadowlark Catering – from the team behind Wizard Burger (Albany), Burrito Burrito and Takk House (Troy) – has taken over the kitchen reins at Troy Beer Garden. Upping the spice stakes with Nashville Hot Cauliflower, their much loved sticky, battered General Tso’s cauli rivals the namesake original in chili-garlic sauce and white sesame seeds.

But this short menu is designed for sharing so order up Cajun-spiced loaded pub fries smothered in chickpea cheeze sauce, smokey sweet BBQ, and pickled jalapenos and try their seasonally evolving taco trio, mac-n-cheeze or chickpea “all flat” wings. Who cares if the wings look more like fat fingers than boneless chicken when it’s packed with 15 herbs and spices and drizzled in green goddess sauce. While you munch, sip a Fakin’ Bacon Manhattan made from Bulleit bourbon, maple, Antica amaro and capped with a fake bacon spear.

Troy Beer Garden | 2 King Street | Troy NY | Phone: 518.244.5215

WIZARD BURGER | Downtown Albany

It’s hard to overstate the craftiness behind the Wizard’s vegan creations. If you visit the Wiz on social media, you’ll find burger abominations flying off on intergalactic, space odysseys. Go in person and this purple-hued counter service spot has added a line up of boozy and non-alcoholic cocktails and an additional room in which to enjoy them surrounded with curios from plant terrariums to crystal balls.

Whether you go for lunch or happy hour, the team behind Wizard Burger has all their nighttime cravings on the menu. Get the Mumbo Jumbo – an Impossible burger topped with house chili, battered onion rings, tater tots and jalapeno-garlic crema – or a crispy chik’n Raptor, but don’t forget battered pickles on the side. Those with a sweet tooth might choose the Impossible Strawberry Snail with an Impossible patty and raspberry jelly on a glazed donut by tiny Strawberry Snail vegan bakery. Go ahead and sip zero-proof cocktails like the hibiscus-based Unbound, but keep in mind purple margaritas are 2-for-1 every Thursday.

Wizard Burger | 74 N. Pearl Street | Albany NY | Phone: 518.250.9440

THE JUICE BRANCH | Catskill & Hudson | Black-Owned Business

Painted all the colors of a tropical island, it’s no surprise George Salter’s juice bar is an uplifting place to hang out whether you visit his Warren Street, Hudson location for an antioxidant packed smoothie or hop the Hudson river to Catskill. In Catskill, you’ll find Salter whipping up his lunch du jour, teased a day ahead on social media. It might be crisply fried oyster mushroom sandwich or plant-based Smack-n’Cheez. Sink into a barrel chair in the window, dip into a book on juicing or the benefits of tea, and Salter will hand deliver plates. Pick from more than twenty-four smoothie combos, add boosts from ginger, elderberry or MCT shots. Munch on nutella and banana or avocado toast topped with hard-boiled egg, hemp and chia or fuel up with an acai or peanut butter banana bowl. (Note: Cash or Venmo only in Catskill)

Susie Davidson Powell | Food Writer and Times Union Dining Critic
Special to the Upstate Alliance for the Creative Economy

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY.
Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

The Authentic 518 Guide to Speakeasy Bars in the Capital Region

January 31, 2022 By Cabrina McGinn

Cocktail at The Maker — The Lounge at The Maker

Ever find yourself in the mood for some swanky, jazzy vibes to transport you back a hundred years or so? Luckily for us, the Capital Region is home to some actual bootlegging legends (check out @bootleggerbungalow on Instagram, you won’t be disappointed). We’re also home to entrepreneurs who know just how to leverage our rich history into some seriously cool speakeasy-style bars and restaurants. We’ve cherry picked 4 bars that we think exude the turn of the century aura. They’ve got sexy, tactile interior decor, and they reside within 200-year-old buildings. Romance and legend and cocktails. It’s a can’t-miss night on the town.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY. Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

9 Maple, Saratoga Springs

The bar at 9 Maple — The glittering bar at 9 Maple in Saratoga Springs

This speakeasy sure doesn’t make itself hard to find — the address and the name of the bar are one and the same. This self-proclaimed ‘Jazz Lounge’ is in a narrow brick building dating back to the 1880’s. This spot can get pretty crowded on the weekends when Saratogians pack into the space to listen to raucous live jazz bands.

While they’re known especially for their espresso martini, they also offer an impressive menu of 250 martinis. In addition, they allegedly have the largest selection of single malt scotch from Manhattan to Montreal. (We can’t wait to begin fact-checking this). The mahogany bar and iron-cast light fixtures are in keeping with the 1880s aura, while bartenders are dressed in formal attire as they shake two martinis at a time. Stop in early for a quiet drink or head in late-night for a bustling good time.

9 Maple, 9 Maple Avenue, Saratoga Springs, 518-583-CLUB, IG @9mapleave

The Berlin, Troy

This sultry spot in Troy sits on the second floor above the Troy Beer Garden, with an inconspicuous side-door entrance on the left side of the building. Complete with Chesterfield sofas, floor-to-ceiling red curtains, and gilded frames from wall-to-wall, The Berlin doesn’t leave even the smallest details unattended to. Intricate wallpaper, exposed brick, and tall ferns provide solarium vibes during daylight hours, and transition perfectly to mysterious night club after dark. Ten original ‘Haus Cocktails’ and nine wines offer a selection for anyone’s palate. This is the perfect spot for after dinner drinks and optimal mood lighting.

The Berlin Lounge, 2 King Street, Troy, 518-730-0330, IG @theberlinlounge

The Maker, Hudson

As the prolific city of Hudson continues to put itself on the international ‘map’, this spot certainly hasn’t wanted for media coverage — it’s an exemplary example of historic renovation. Because of the building alone, we’d be remiss not to include The Lounge at The Maker. Built inside of a restored carriage barn, a marble and mahogany horseshoe bar acts as the grand focal point. Tassel-lamps descend from the ceiling. Intricately tiled floors, dark panel walls and heavy velvet curtains erase the last hundred years. It’s a complete the time-travel experience. With their unique and inventive cocktail list and small bites, The Maker lounge is a great stop for a date night or late-night get together.

The Maker, 302 Warren Street, Hudson, IG @themakerhotel

Elixir 16, Troy

Elixir in Troy — The historic building that’s home to Elixir 16

The history of the building at 45 2nd St is the most interesting and unique of any on this list. Originally built as a single-family home in 1822, it was renovated and the bottom floor used as a doctors office for nearly 100 years until now-owner Megan Reavey bought it in 2016. She pays homage to this in a couple of ways. The first is slightly macabre: in the front room sits an old, 1940’s medical bench, complete with stirrups and parchment paper rolled over the surface. She tells us that when she bought the building, this medical bench was still in use! The second homage is in the name. “The definition of Elixir is something the doctor prescribes, or a magical potion,” says Reavey.

The floors, fireplaces and chandeliers are original to the building. The ceiling tile is also of the 1800’s but salvaged from other buildings. Up until just a couple of years ago, there was no signage on the bar whatsoever. Instead, there was just a sandwich board out front that said ‘Curious? Come see for yourself’. They offer a wide selection of craft brews, as well as dumplings and board games. This one is an absolute must for the history buff or the craft beer enthusiast.

Elixir 16, 45 2nd St, Troy, IG @elixir1

This article is part of our “The Authentic 518” Series done in collaboration with Cabrina McGinn and Straight Upstate.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY. Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

Dishing Out the Deets with Susie Davidson Powell

January 27, 2022 By Corey Aldrich

Pretty sure I met Susie Davidson Powell while enjoying a glass of wine at The Confectionary in Troy a few years ago. Since then, I have had opportunity to hit the road with her and get a front row seat on what its like to enjoy the food life from the drivers seat…and also the passenger seat – in her Porche 911 Targa 4S. Yup, she rolls in style!

Many would think that you have a dream job! What is it exactly that you do and for how long have you been doing it?

I’ve been writing about food and drink in the Hudson Valley for close to a decade, first when I moved to Columbia County after living in the city, and then in the Capital Region. I’ve been the Times Union dining critic since 2014, so I write weekly restaurant reviews, critic’s notebook features, The Food Life (a trend-focused digital subscriber newsletter) and a monthly cocktail column. I also co-founded thefoodlife.co for Hearst and wrote and filmed Kitchen Raid, a 6-week armchair travel, cooking and recipe subscription focused on pro tips and kitchen ingredients to make fast plates and amazing cocktails. But it’s not as glamorous as people think…

How did you end up getting into this business? Was this part of your original career path or did you develop this over time?

Not at all! I grew up outside London, England, and was always traveling through Europe, later working in Poland and on a Greek Island. Throughout uni and grad school, I worked as a bartender and cocktail waitress, server and occasional kitchen help. This was a great eye opener in terms of the industry and chef and customer behavior.

I came to Albany, New York to attend grad school. I worked as a research program director and stayed in publishing/curricula development for several years. I’m so grateful for that experience. I’d be out on the road for weeks, eating my way from L.A. to El Paso or D.C. to Roswell, NM. A real culinary education. After moving with my family to Columbia County, NY, I wrote a weekly newspaper column about country life and started covering the growing farm-to-table scene around 2003 just as Swoon opened on Warren Street, Hudson, and not long after the 9/11 exodus Upstate. The rest is history.

What does your job look like on a daily basis? I mean, from a practical perspective beyond all the glamour parts! Ok, maybe some glamour stuff also…

I’m constantly tracking new openings, following chef moves between restaurants, and driving – anywhere from Hudson or Woodstock to the Adirondacks – in search of food. I visit new restaurants once or twice each week and circle back for breakfast, lunch or take out a few times a week. I spend a lot of time on background research too, reviewing current and past menus, and setting up interviews. All this before I get to write. One review with travel, eating, and writing time can take 10 to 15 hours. But I do get invited to talk about food-and-drink on radio and TV and I’m often sent wines and spirits to try. That’s the only glamour part!

I pivoted my coverage, writing about take out, drinks to-go, Black-owned eateries following the BLM protests, staff funds, and a series of behind-the-scenes Shutdown Dairies with restaurateurs and chefs. It felt important to show the struggle faced by industry people. Also, I rapidly compiled the first 50 restaurants that switched to take out in the initial lock down, which became the basis of a Times Union take out database. I’m proud of that.

I also ditched my anonymity and hosted online Food Life Lives, chatting with restaurateurs, sommeliers, farmers, even a DJ. We wanted to touch on what we were missing, what we could plate or pour at home, and how to recreate that feeling of being looked after that you have when you dine out. Before the pandemic, I used to host a lot of dinner parties and private wine or whiskey tasting events, so during the lock down I was asked to do a few via Zoom for the Times Union.

What are your goals for 2022? Anything additional that you would like to mention?

All the Covid delays have made me a little gun shy of setting timed goals but I have a drinks, dining and travel hospitality guide in the works called thedishing.com. You can sign up online for details about its launch!

EDITORS NOTE: Corey here, with a shameless plug. Susie with be bringing a non-alcoholic cocktail series to Arts Bar at the Arts Center of the Capital Region for the first quarter of 2022. The events, are held on Troy Night Out in downtown Troy on the 4^th Friday of each month. The first will be on 01.28 from 6:00 to 8:00 at 265 River Street Troy. Come join us for art and a variety of non- and-alcohol based cocktails!

IG: @artsbartroy

The Authentic 518: Old School Italian Restaurants

January 5, 2022 By Cabrina McGinn

The Italian American community in New York City is as established and historic as the city itself. Luckily for us, many Italian Immigrants also ventured upstate to the Capital Region during the waves of European migration of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These communities quite literally built and shaped the cities we see today.

These once-bustling Italian neighborhoods still exist in pockets all over the 518. We set out to find authentic Italian restaurants that have been owned and operated by the same families for multiple generations, and have become beloved Capital Region institutions.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY. Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

Perreca’s

We’d be remiss not to start our journey in Schenectady’s Little Italy. This North Jay Street neighborhood was built by the Italian community that you can find here to this day.

Founded by immigrants Salvatore & Carmella Perreca in 1914, Perreca’s is one of the oldest continually operating restaurants in the Capital Region. The original brick oven, built more than a century ago, is still used today.

Currently owned and operated by the third generation, siblings Maria & Anthony Papa still make their famous bread using the Old World technique brought from Naples by their grandparents. Legend has it that, in more than 100 years, this oven has never gone out. Anthony explains that the bricks expand when hot. If they were to cool down and contract, the oven could collapse. He comes into the bakery every single day, 365 days a year to put coals on the fire. “I don’t think I’ve taken a vacation since I went on my honeymoon,” he says with a laugh.

Perreca's Eggs in Purgatory — Perreca’s signature dish, Eggs in Purgatory

“Okay, I’m gonna give one secret away,” says Anthony Papa. “[The oven] actually has been out, once.” He explains that at one point he had to let it cool and actually crawl inside to attempt a daring cleaning expedition.

“The history, and the lure of this area is old school Italian food, done right. My thought when I’m cooking is to always honor the neighborhood,” says Head Chef Neil. He should know! A Schenectady native, Neil was born and raised right here in this “Little Italy”.

MORE Perreca’s Italian Kitchen, 31 N Jay Street Schenectady, New York 12305, telephone 518-377-9800.

Caffe Italia

Caffe Italia’s Capellini Dugan: Shrimp, Lobster & Spinach with white wine garlic sauce

Every Albany native knows about Caffe Italia, an institution on Central Ave. In 1974, founder Joseph Romeo opened a small coffee shop on this spot. The local Italian community congregated, drank cappuccino, and picked up an Italian newspaper and other novelties from the Old Country.

Chef Paul Romeo Caffe Italia — Chef Paul “Big Pauly” Romeo in the kitchen at Caffe Italia

Albany’s original “Little Italy” on Madison Avenue was demolished to make way for the Empire State Plaza. As a result, many of those businesses and people were scattered. The Romeos coffee shop stayed where it was, and now and again, Joseph’s wife Jana (Joanne) would make any one of a variety of homemade dishes that were such a hit with customers. Just 6 years later, they bought the Arlington Luncheonette next door and opened Caffe Italia in 1980.

For more than 20 years and with no formal culinary training, Joseph and Jana welcomed the larger Albany community and built an institution that their children have carried on today, with Suzanne as accountant, Pauly as executive chef, and Michael & Maria running the front of house. With room for just 40 guests in the restaurants, Maria tells us of how her family has always prioritized their community above all else.

The Romeo Legacy

“The one thing my [late] father really wanted in this business was for people to relax and have it be an experience, similar to what you would find in your own home or in an Italian home. You don’t just sit and quickly eat. You sit around the table, you have a conversation, you get to know people. Over the years, we’ve built relationships with the people who frequent our restaurant. Now we have generations of families who’ve not only watched me grow but watched my kids grow as well.”

Luckily for our community some of the third generation of Romeo’s, most of whom are teenagers and young adults at the moment, are already learning the trade! And, even better, they’re now bottling their sauce, so you can experience a bit of Caffe Italia at home.

Caffe Italia, 662 Central Avenue, Albany, NY 12206-1645, telephone: (518) 459-8029

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe

Executive Chef Carmelo Lo Porto in the kitchen

Crowd at Lo Porto — Lo Porto is bustling, even on weeknights

Across the river in Troy, the Lo Porto family are award-winning 5th generation restaurateurs hailing from Sicily. Brothers Salvatore and Michael Lo Porto opened their restaurant in downtown Troy in the 80’s after having immigrated from Italy in the 60’s. Michael is well-known throughout the community as the face of the business. Until a few years ago, you could almost always find him visiting tables to get to know new guests or catch up with the stampede of regulars that have been coming back for 30-something years. His nephew Carmelo, currently the Executive Chef, tells us that he was in the kitchen when he was just 10 years old.

Private Room at Lo Porto — The private room at Lo Porto

Between Michael and Carmelo, the two Chefs hold around two-dozen credentials and awards. Unfortunately, Carmelo tells me that his uncle Michael has been sick for the past few years. As a result, he has not been as involved as usual. But even during Michael’s absence and throughout the pandemic, Carmelo says that their priority remains the same. “Our number one joy is putting people in the seats, talking to people and talk about our family. We actually see a lot of new faces now. Lots of people have moved up from the city. We see new faces, then start to see them again and again.”

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe, 85 Fourth Street, Troy, New York, 12180, telephone (518) 273-8546.

This article is part of our “The Authentic 518” Series done in collaboration with Cabrina McGinn and Straight Upstate.

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Stay tuned for more of our monthly The Authentic 518 articles – from hidden gems to Capital Region classics, we’re exploring all the spots that embody the authentic 518.

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Angel’s Latin Restaurant, Catskill

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Angel’s Latin Restaurant is a steam counter. For the uninitiated, steam counters are made of stainless steel, and hold steamy bins of hot food, set behind glass. You tell the server what you’d like to eat, and they’ll heap generous servings into containers for you to take home or eat in. Steam counters are common in Manhattan, Brooklyn and other cities, but not so much here in the Capital Region. So, if you’re a former NYC resident, Angel’s will be a nostalgiac treat. This unassuming, bright orange storefront on Catskill’s Main Street offers authentic, hearty, delicious Dominican food at great prices and in huge servings.

Upon entering Angel’s, Oscar and I were greeted by Nilfa, a friendly young woman who stands behind the counter, ready to answer questions about the huge array of food prepared by her aunt and her aunt’s husband.

There’s a very wide variety of choices here, with specials on each day of the week. On the night we visited, there was stewed chicken, roast chicken (my favorite!), three kinds of rice (red, white, and black, which had an Asian / soy sauce twist of flavors. The black rice is a specialty of Angel’s), and your choice of beans – red or black. There was also goat, two kinds of pork, two beef dishes, bacalao (salt cod), and yucca. Some nights, you’ll also find oxtail.

Oscar and Nilfa, whose family owns and runs Angel’s Latin Restaurant

Ask For: Tostones with Garlic Sauce

Oscar talked to Nilfa and her aunt in Spanish, asking whether they had tostones (fried green plantains). Nilfa replied that the tostones are always made to order, so that they’re extra crisp. And you’ll be glad to know, they’re SUPER delicious and served steaming hot. Be sure to ask them for the garlic sauce, served on the side. It’s another specialty of the house.

Angel’s ”is completely run by family. Kids do the dishes. Everyone in the family contributes,” Nilfa told us. On the night we were there, the clientele was entirely people of color, and we asked Nilfa if this was usual. “Yes,” she said, “though sometimes we do get a mix of people. I try to explain the menu and the food when someone is not familiar with Dominican food.” Their menu also caters to the foods of other Latin-Caribbean countries like Puerto Rico, “because Dominican is lesser knows. We try to have some things that are familiar,” Nilfa said.

Oxtail — Here’s your chance to try oxtail!

Our HUGE dinners cost $6 for a small plate and $8 for a large plate, for meat, rice and beans, and sides. Crazy good prices, and completely delicious!

Angel’s Latin Restaurant, 334 Main Street, Catskill, NY, (518) 719-8815. Open 12pm-9pm Monday through Saturday, 12pm-7pm on Sunday.