Schenectady

CAP Region 5: Vegan / Vegetarian Spotlight

March 1, 2022 By Susie Powell

Susie Davidson Powell | Food Writer and Times Union Dining Critic
Special to the Upstate Alliance for the Creative Economy

The plant-based food industry has boomed in recent years with myco-protein chik’n and beet burgers that bleed, branded with names like Beyond and Impossible suggesting we’re scaling new heights. The pandemic only sharpened growth with renewed interest in health conscious eating, efforts to reduce animal consumption (hello, meatless Mondays), and awareness of strained farm-to-table supply chains coupled with new direct-to-consumer options. Suddenly, plant-based options surged on mainstream restaurants’ simplified, post-pandemic menus and customers continue to feed the demand for meatless options when dining out.

Downstate, we’ve seen a Michelin star and James Beard award nominations for a vegan restaurant, chef and veg-driven hospitality group. Upstate, the Capital District is enjoying its own share of the action with more growth in the vegan/vegetarian dining scene in two years than the last ten. And they aren’t they aren’t doing it lightly. From the growing vegan list, we’ve picked five eateries putting flavor, fermentation and local farms at the forefront of their plant-based creations.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY.
Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

BAR VEGAN | Center Square | Albany

From Lark St. Poke to the Loft 205, sibling owners Will and Mary Phan have opened downtown spots that earn a loyal crowd. But after closing their popular college bar, LAX, during the pandemic, Will was inspired by vegan restaurant Avant Garden in Manhattan and reinvented the LAX space as a vegan restaurant, including an entirely vegan bar. Partnering with a local florist, the place has been beautifully transformed with shiny white subway tiles, leafy planters and trailing vines, and the menu offers shareable plates that won’t break the bank. From a kitchen carefully separated to avoid cross contamination with the Loft restaurant upstairs, try the sweet potato tempura sushi roll, edamame potstickers filled with a luxurious edamame puree (choose steamed or fried), stuffed avocado and bang bang cauliflower florets. All wines and spirits are vegan or organic.

Bar Vegan | 205 Lark Street | Albany NY | Phone: 518.818.0833

TAKE TWO CAFE | Schenectady

Take Two picks up where much missed Shades of Green on Lark Street left off years ago. Owner Chelsea Heilman has created a gorgeous garden-inspired oasis on Schenectady’s State Street where foot traffic is high and it’s hard to miss her hand-painted sidewalk tables. An avid traveler, Heilman serves a chickpea curry, inspired by one from Iceland, along with a replica avocado-pesto-feta-walnut toast and a tofu scramble breakfast burrito with chorizo, chile, and homefries both inspired by cafes in Melbourne, Australia, and Colorado.

Among the most labor intensive ingredients is Heilman’s faux lox salmon. Carrots are given a 32-hour bath in a seaweed, soy and caper brine for umami bite – perfect to pile on a bagel with vegan cream cheese. Stop by and join an all-day crowd pouring in for sandwiches and vegan pastries. Fix your coffee as you like: A counter refrigerator is jammed with all the plant milks from oat to almond.

Take Two Cafe | 433 State Street | Schenectady | Phone: 518.280.9670

Meadowlark @ Troy Beer Garden | Troy

As if this stylish, leafy, downtown cocktail bar could get any greener, Meadowlark Catering – from the team behind Wizard Burger (Albany), Burrito Burrito and Takk House (Troy) – has taken over the kitchen reins at Troy Beer Garden. Upping the spice stakes with Nashville Hot Cauliflower, their much loved sticky, battered General Tso’s cauli rivals the namesake original in chili-garlic sauce and white sesame seeds.

But this short menu is designed for sharing so order up Cajun-spiced loaded pub fries smothered in chickpea cheeze sauce, smokey sweet BBQ, and pickled jalapenos and try their seasonally evolving taco trio, mac-n-cheeze or chickpea “all flat” wings. Who cares if the wings look more like fat fingers than boneless chicken when it’s packed with 15 herbs and spices and drizzled in green goddess sauce. While you munch, sip a Fakin’ Bacon Manhattan made from Bulleit bourbon, maple, Antica amaro and capped with a fake bacon spear.

Troy Beer Garden | 2 King Street | Troy NY | Phone: 518.244.5215

WIZARD BURGER | Downtown Albany

It’s hard to overstate the craftiness behind the Wizard’s vegan creations. If you visit the Wiz on social media, you’ll find burger abominations flying off on intergalactic, space odysseys. Go in person and this purple-hued counter service spot has added a line up of boozy and non-alcoholic cocktails and an additional room in which to enjoy them surrounded with curios from plant terrariums to crystal balls.

Whether you go for lunch or happy hour, the team behind Wizard Burger has all their nighttime cravings on the menu. Get the Mumbo Jumbo – an Impossible burger topped with house chili, battered onion rings, tater tots and jalapeno-garlic crema – or a crispy chik’n Raptor, but don’t forget battered pickles on the side. Those with a sweet tooth might choose the Impossible Strawberry Snail with an Impossible patty and raspberry jelly on a glazed donut by tiny Strawberry Snail vegan bakery. Go ahead and sip zero-proof cocktails like the hibiscus-based Unbound, but keep in mind purple margaritas are 2-for-1 every Thursday.

Wizard Burger | 74 N. Pearl Street | Albany NY | Phone: 518.250.9440

THE JUICE BRANCH | Catskill & Hudson | Black-Owned Business

Painted all the colors of a tropical island, it’s no surprise George Salter’s juice bar is an uplifting place to hang out whether you visit his Warren Street, Hudson location for an antioxidant packed smoothie or hop the Hudson river to Catskill. In Catskill, you’ll find Salter whipping up his lunch du jour, teased a day ahead on social media. It might be crisply fried oyster mushroom sandwich or plant-based Smack-n’Cheez. Sink into a barrel chair in the window, dip into a book on juicing or the benefits of tea, and Salter will hand deliver plates. Pick from more than twenty-four smoothie combos, add boosts from ginger, elderberry or MCT shots. Munch on nutella and banana or avocado toast topped with hard-boiled egg, hemp and chia or fuel up with an acai or peanut butter banana bowl. (Note: Cash or Venmo only in Catskill)

Susie Davidson Powell | Food Writer and Times Union Dining Critic
Special to the Upstate Alliance for the Creative Economy

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY.
Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

The Authentic 518: Old School Italian Restaurants

January 5, 2022 By Cabrina McGinn

The Italian American community in New York City is as established and historic as the city itself. Luckily for us, many Italian Immigrants also ventured upstate to the Capital Region during the waves of European migration of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These communities quite literally built and shaped the cities we see today.

These once-bustling Italian neighborhoods still exist in pockets all over the 518. We set out to find authentic Italian restaurants that have been owned and operated by the same families for multiple generations, and have become beloved Capital Region institutions.

This article is presented through a content collaboration with ACE and CapNY. Visit us on Instagram at @upstatecreative and @gocapny!

Perreca’s

We’d be remiss not to start our journey in Schenectady’s Little Italy. This North Jay Street neighborhood was built by the Italian community that you can find here to this day.

Founded by immigrants Salvatore & Carmella Perreca in 1914, Perreca’s is one of the oldest continually operating restaurants in the Capital Region. The original brick oven, built more than a century ago, is still used today.

Currently owned and operated by the third generation, siblings Maria & Anthony Papa still make their famous bread using the Old World technique brought from Naples by their grandparents. Legend has it that, in more than 100 years, this oven has never gone out. Anthony explains that the bricks expand when hot. If they were to cool down and contract, the oven could collapse. He comes into the bakery every single day, 365 days a year to put coals on the fire. “I don’t think I’ve taken a vacation since I went on my honeymoon,” he says with a laugh.

Perreca's Eggs in Purgatory — Perreca’s signature dish, Eggs in Purgatory

“Okay, I’m gonna give one secret away,” says Anthony Papa. “[The oven] actually has been out, once.” He explains that at one point he had to let it cool and actually crawl inside to attempt a daring cleaning expedition.

“The history, and the lure of this area is old school Italian food, done right. My thought when I’m cooking is to always honor the neighborhood,” says Head Chef Neil. He should know! A Schenectady native, Neil was born and raised right here in this “Little Italy”.

MORE Perreca’s Italian Kitchen, 31 N Jay Street Schenectady, New York 12305, telephone 518-377-9800.

Caffe Italia

Caffe Italia’s Capellini Dugan: Shrimp, Lobster & Spinach with white wine garlic sauce

Every Albany native knows about Caffe Italia, an institution on Central Ave. In 1974, founder Joseph Romeo opened a small coffee shop on this spot. The local Italian community congregated, drank cappuccino, and picked up an Italian newspaper and other novelties from the Old Country.

Chef Paul Romeo Caffe Italia — Chef Paul “Big Pauly” Romeo in the kitchen at Caffe Italia

Albany’s original “Little Italy” on Madison Avenue was demolished to make way for the Empire State Plaza. As a result, many of those businesses and people were scattered. The Romeos coffee shop stayed where it was, and now and again, Joseph’s wife Jana (Joanne) would make any one of a variety of homemade dishes that were such a hit with customers. Just 6 years later, they bought the Arlington Luncheonette next door and opened Caffe Italia in 1980.

For more than 20 years and with no formal culinary training, Joseph and Jana welcomed the larger Albany community and built an institution that their children have carried on today, with Suzanne as accountant, Pauly as executive chef, and Michael & Maria running the front of house. With room for just 40 guests in the restaurants, Maria tells us of how her family has always prioritized their community above all else.

The Romeo Legacy

“The one thing my [late] father really wanted in this business was for people to relax and have it be an experience, similar to what you would find in your own home or in an Italian home. You don’t just sit and quickly eat. You sit around the table, you have a conversation, you get to know people. Over the years, we’ve built relationships with the people who frequent our restaurant. Now we have generations of families who’ve not only watched me grow but watched my kids grow as well.”

Luckily for our community some of the third generation of Romeo’s, most of whom are teenagers and young adults at the moment, are already learning the trade! And, even better, they’re now bottling their sauce, so you can experience a bit of Caffe Italia at home.

Caffe Italia, 662 Central Avenue, Albany, NY 12206-1645, telephone: (518) 459-8029

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe

Executive Chef Carmelo Lo Porto in the kitchen

Crowd at Lo Porto — Lo Porto is bustling, even on weeknights

Across the river in Troy, the Lo Porto family are award-winning 5th generation restaurateurs hailing from Sicily. Brothers Salvatore and Michael Lo Porto opened their restaurant in downtown Troy in the 80’s after having immigrated from Italy in the 60’s. Michael is well-known throughout the community as the face of the business. Until a few years ago, you could almost always find him visiting tables to get to know new guests or catch up with the stampede of regulars that have been coming back for 30-something years. His nephew Carmelo, currently the Executive Chef, tells us that he was in the kitchen when he was just 10 years old.

Private Room at Lo Porto — The private room at Lo Porto

Between Michael and Carmelo, the two Chefs hold around two-dozen credentials and awards. Unfortunately, Carmelo tells me that his uncle Michael has been sick for the past few years. As a result, he has not been as involved as usual. But even during Michael’s absence and throughout the pandemic, Carmelo says that their priority remains the same. “Our number one joy is putting people in the seats, talking to people and talk about our family. We actually see a lot of new faces now. Lots of people have moved up from the city. We see new faces, then start to see them again and again.”

Lo Porto Ristorante Caffe, 85 Fourth Street, Troy, New York, 12180, telephone (518) 273-8546.

This article is part of our “The Authentic 518” Series done in collaboration with Cabrina McGinn and Straight Upstate.

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Stay tuned for more of our monthly The Authentic 518 articles – from hidden gems to Capital Region classics, we’re exploring all the spots that embody the authentic 518.

ACE Culinary Road Trip: 5 Amazing Latin-Owned Restaurants!

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Welcome to our celebration of Latin-owned restaurants in the Capital Region! Schenectady-based, Honduran-born artist Oscar Bogran and I explored a range of restaurants that are deeply inspired by Latin American heritage and culture. We tried things we’d NEVER dreamed of eating, and met amazing women who are running successful businesses and employing dozens of people. Not many of them would call themselves “chefs.” (They’d likely say they’re the “cook”.) But rest assured, they’re hand making some of the most fantastic artisan food in the Capital Region, at price tags everyone can afford.

Click to read much more about each location:

Casa Latina, Salvadorean and Mexican Cuisine in Hudson

Flores Family Restaurant, Salvadorean food in Schenectady

Empanada Llama, Peruvian cuisine in Albany

Angel’s Latin Restaurant, Dominican Cuisine in Catskill

Oaxaquena Triqui, Oaxacan Cuisine in Albany

Griselda and her daughters, Oaxaquena Triqui

“Artisan food” is a term used to describe food produced by non-industrialised methods. It’s often handed down through generations but now in danger of being lost.

And here’s what you get when you eat each of these restaurants:

Authenticity — the owners and chefs are dedicated to sharing their rich culture through food. They talked to us about each and every dish, thrilled to share their stories.

Affordability — we didn’t spend over $15 per person at any of these restaurants, and often, we spent under $10.

Family Operated — every restaurant included family in their operation.

Minority and Women Ownership — all are owned by people who were born in Latin American countries, and four out of five are headed by women.

pupusas — Pupusas at Flores Family Restaurant

Our Tips for Exploring Latin American Restaurants:

Ask Lots of Questions — Everyone really enjoyed explaining their offerings. Additionally, we often found specialties that aren’t even included on the menu

Speak Spanish, If You Know Any — Oscar was able to draw out conversations better than I was, for sure! He was able to engage people who weren’t that comfortable with their English, and he helped me, too, because I’m not comfortable in Spanish.

Don’t Judge a Book By Its Cover — Many of these settings are very humble. The storefronts are not fancy, the interiors are utilitarian, and they might not be in the “best” section of these downtowns. However, the adventure will be super fun, and the food is fantastic. We guarantee it.

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Flores Family Restaurant, Schenectady

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

For our trip to Flores Family Restaurant, Oscar and I were joined by Lorraine Morales Cox, Associate Professor of Visual Art at Union College. Lorraine’s father is Puerto Rican, so she knows Latin food. And, we talked about the textures and insights we get when a restaurant is Latin-owned.

Flores Family Restaurant is a bustling, Salvadorean-owned spot on State Street in Schenectady, with a lively lunch crowd. Our waitress, Kati, told us the midday rush is largely Spanish-speaking workers who have jobs in Schenectady, and don’t want to eat McDonald’s for lunch. The menu caters, she said, to the Caribbean styles of Latin food — it’s mainly Salvadorean, but there are additions from many other countries, so that customers can get both familiar and new foods.

Don’t Miss: The Roast Chicken and Pork

Kati helped us navigate the Flores specialties. “You have to get the pupusas, and the pollo la braza (roasted chicken),” she advised. It was great advice! Lorraine also ordered pernil — slow-roasted pork shoulder or leg. It’s a dish she grew up eating as a child, and it’s often served during Christmas. She loved Flores’ version, with its strong cilantro flavors. The meats were all extremely tender and delicious, and came served with beans, a soup, and plaintains. The pupusas are fantastic — especially the loroco (a Latin American vegetable from El Savador) and the ayote (zucchini) versions — and come with a wonderful, homemade, red sauce, along with rice and cabbage.

In addition to the food specialties, there are a wide variety of house-made drinks here, too. The horchata is delicious! There’s also a great tamarindo drink. Plus, there’s a Salvadorean specialty, marañon, which is the Salvadorian name for the cashew fruit. Jugo de marañon is cashew juice, a light sweet juice somewhat similar to guava juice and almond milk combined. Semilla de marañon is the seed, the actual cashew nut. We highly recommend all of them, and we may be experimenting with some additions of rum in the future.

pernil — Pernil with plaintains and beans!

“There’s an intimacy here,” Lorraine said. “It feels like they’re cooking and serving food for family.” And she added, “I’ve driven by this place so many times in the past. I had no idea I was ten minutes away from having pernil for dinner!” We’re hoping that lots more people make the same discovery.

Flores Family Restaurant, 1427 State St, Schenectady, (518) 723-2281. Open every day, 11am-10pm. (Note: their website says that they’re open for take-out only, but they are indeed open for dine-in, too.)

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

Behind the Scenes At “The Costumer”

July 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

In 2016, Erik and Bonnie Johnsen moved from Massachusetts and bought The Costumer, a 100-year-old, full-service costume and makeup business with locations in Albany and Schenectady. The Johnsen’s are passionate about the positive impact of scholastic theater! Read on as Bonnie takes us behind the scenes at this creative — and mission driven — business.

How and why did you buy a costuming company?

Erik and I are theater parents. Our son, Tyler, was a very, very introverted little boy. Teachers tried everything to get him out of his shell. So, in fifth grade, he signed up for chorus, and he ended up with a solo. He blew us away! That was his stepping stone into theater, winning awards and leads in every show in high school. He just completely took off and it changed his life.

So, when Erik wanted to get out of the corporate world and saw this opportunity to buy a small business, we knew it was the right thing. We believe completely in this mission because know what scholastic theater can do for a young child’s confidence. It’s fabulous.

Tyler is 22 now and studied theater and business in college. He’s now getting his Masters degree, and helps us in the summers. We all love it. This business is truly something we’re passionate about.

What’s the history of The Costumer?

The business was started in Schenectady in 1917 by a woman named Anna White. She was trading handmade costumes in exchange for dance lessons for her daughter. Since then, it’s changed owners four times. The Sheehan family were performers and teachers, and they saw the niche of school productions. They believed that kids deserved Broadway-caliber costumes.at affordable prices.

Constructing costumes for *Something Rotten!*

Our head designer has been with the business for over 30 years, with experience from Broadway. She creates costumes for all of the new shows, and makes sure that they are shipable and durable, because they’re for kids. We’re one of the few businesses that customize our products for all ages, even elementary schools. It used to be that high schools were the main customers for high-end costumes, but now we see it for all ages, even young children. So, the costumes need to be tailored to suit.

What kind of jobs and careers are there at The Costumer?

There are a wide variety of jobs here, and most of us wear a lot of hats. For the costumes, we need seamstresses to construct new products and tailor the costumes for our orders. Everything needs to be laundered, pressed, and packed, so we’ve got people who handle all of that.

Shrek costume — The Costumer’s annual catalog photo shoot

Plus, we’ve got a retail establishment, so there are others who meet and talk to customers. And, there’s of course the office and administrative staff, who are doing bookkeeping and a variety of other things. I handle some of the marketing, and social media is done by retail manager. We’re all multi taskers. At the height of the theater season and during Halloween, we’ve got about 40 employees on staff.

Many businesses and organizations have expressed a need for tailors and seamstresses. Have you, too, had trouble finding people?

Yes, it’s very difficult to find trained seamstresses. I think it might be because they’ve largely stopped teaching Home Ec in schools, and that’s the way that a lot of us learned to sew. It’s definitely become a dying art.

Thankfully, though, they do teach sewing in college theater programs. Tyler knows how to sew for his theater degree, and we’ve hired other people from his school. But the best source of seamstresses has been young people who are very active in the cosplay community (the practice of dressing up as a character from a movie, book, or video game). Young people are making their own costumes. Cosplay and Comicon are absolutely enormous businesses, and sewing is a great skill for young people to have.

You’ve got a move in your future?

Yes! We are moving our retail location over to Mohawk Harbor, and are looking at an August opening. We’re very excited. The Harbor has got the whole “live, work, play” environment. There are restaurants and the casino and the amphitheater. It’s a fun place, and we’re a fun company. Our employees are excited about it, too, After a difficult year and a half, it’s nice to have something great to look forward to.