Artisanal Food and Agriculture

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Flores Family Restaurant, Schenectady

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Lorraine and Oscar — Lorraine Morales Cox and Oscar Bogran, and our amazing feast at Flores Family Restaurant

For our trip to Flores Family Restaurant, Oscar and I were joined by Lorraine Morales Cox, Associate Professor of Visual Art at Union College. Lorraine’s father is Puerto Rican, so she knows Latin food. And, we talked about the textures and insights we get when a restaurant is Latin-owned.

Roast Chicken — Pollo La Braza (roast chicken)

Flores Family Restaurant is a bustling, Salvadorean-owned spot on State Street in Schenectady, with a lively lunch crowd. Our waitress, Kati, told us the midday rush is largely Spanish-speaking workers who have jobs in Schenectady, and don’t want to eat McDonald’s for lunch. The menu caters, she said, to the Caribbean styles of Latin food — it’s mainly Salvadorean, but there are additions from many other countries, so that customers can get both familiar and new foods.

Don’t Miss: The Roast Chicken and Pork

Kati helped us navigate the Flores specialties. “You have to get the pupusas, and the pollo la braza (roasted chicken),” she advised. It was great advice! Lorraine also ordered pernil — slow-roasted pork shoulder or leg. It’s a dish she grew up eating as a child, and it’s often served during Christmas. She loved Flores’ version, with its strong cilantro flavors. The meats were all extremely tender and delicious, and came served with beans, a soup, and plaintains. The pupusas are fantastic — especially the loroco (a Latin American vegetable from El Savador) and the ayote (zucchini) versions — and come with a wonderful, homemade, red sauce, along with rice and cabbage.

In addition to the food specialties, there are a wide variety of house-made drinks here, too. The horchata is delicious! There’s also a great tamarindo drink. Plus, there’s a Salvadorean specialty, marañon, which is the Salvadorian name for the cashew fruit. Jugo de marañon is cashew juice, a light sweet juice somewhat similar to guava juice and almond milk combined. Semilla de marañon is the seed, the actual cashew nut. We highly recommend all of them, and we may be experimenting with some additions of rum in the future.

pernil — Pernil with plaintains and beans!

“There’s an intimacy here,” Lorraine said. “It feels like they’re cooking and serving food for family.” And she added, “I’ve driven by this place so many times in the past. I had no idea I was ten minutes away from having pernil for dinner!” We’re hoping that lots more people make the same discovery.

Flores Family Restaurant, 1427 State St, Schenectady, (518) 723-2281. Open every day, 11am-10pm. (Note: their website says that they’re open for take-out only, but they are indeed open for dine-in, too.)

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Empanada Llama, Albany

December 7, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Maria Lloyd is the owner and creator of Empanada Llama, a terrific Peruvian restaurant on Delaware Avenue in Albany. Here, the empanada reigns supreme. There are seven different kinds of savory empanadas on the menu each day. Plus, you’ll find three sweet versions, like Banana Nutella and Apple Pie. And these empanadas are decidedly different than the Puerto Rican or other versions you may have had. These are stuffed full, with crispy, crunchy exteriors, so that the fillings are the headlines, rather than being overpowered by a thick, doughy wrapper.

Maria walked us through everything we ate

Maria became a cook and restauranteur only after she came to the United States. Initially, she came to study graphic design. But 25 years ago, while raising two daughters, she saw that Americans were falling for the empanadas she was making at international food festivals. Cooking provided a way for her to bring money in while raising her two daughters, while her husband Joe worked double shifts to make ends meet. She opened the restaurant with the help of her daughter, who now lives in San Diego.

Don’t Miss: The Green Empanada & Green Sauce

gluten free empanadas — My custom-prepared gluten-free meal: green empanada, tamale and green sauce

Maria grew up in Piura, in northern Peru, where there are nice beaches and a beautiful climate all year round. The food at Empanada Llama reflects her northern background, with noted differences from food in Lima and Cuzco. One specialty is the green tamale, which is only found in Piura (it’s fantastic, and silky soft). Don’t miss out on the homemade green sauce, which, if you’re lucky, you can also buy for take-out.

Happily, Maria sat with us for nearly an hour and told us so much about her life and experience in both the U.S. and Peru. During our conversation, she also adapted our food to suit our preferences. She made me some gluten-free empanadas, which you can get if you call ahead. The yucca is also gluten-free, as are the delicious tamales.

handmade peruvian gifts — Handmade Peruvian gifts for sale

Thankfully for us, the empanada business worked, and she remains a fixture at the Delmar and Schenectady Farmers Markets. The store front on Delaware Avenue has been open for five years, with a variety of Peruvian foods and handmade gifts.

Empanada Llama, 469 Delaware Avenue, Albany, (518) 729-2512. Open 11am-8pm Tuesday and Wednesday, 4pm-8pm Thursday, and 11am-10pm Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco — Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Casa Latina Pupusas Y Mas, Hudson

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

At Casa Latina, everything — from the guajillo salsa to horchata (a sweet, cinnamon-flavored rice drink) to the soft, warm corn tortillas — is made on site. A few blocks off of swanky, expensive Warren Street, Casa Latina is an affordable oasis. There are four indoor tables, outdoor seating, and a parking lot (a rarity in Hudson). Mexican paper decorations and Frida Kahlo portraits spruce up the funky, functional décor. And, the food is prepared in sight of the tables. You’ll see for yourself, the Romero family knows how to cook, and they know how to hustle!

Our super-friendly waiter, Javier (the son of owner/chef Maria), walks us through the menu. We ask what’s the specialty of the house, and he says everyone loves the tacos (it’s true, they’re fantastic). But tonight we’re looking for something less usual, so he tells us to try the sopes ($8), a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a fried masa base with savory toppings. You’ve got your choice of cheese, beans, pork, or steak. They’re hearty and heartwarming, and will keep you filled up on a cold winter’s day. One of the cehfs, Alberto, is from the Puebla region of Mexico, and these sopes are his specialty.

Make Sure to Try: The Pupusas

While you’re here, make sure to try the pupusas ($3-$4), too. What are they, you ask? Pupusas are a delicious corn masa flatbread and the national dish of El Salvador. Owner and head chef Maria Romero is Salvadorean, and these recipes are ones that her familiy has made for generations. The pupusas are filled with one or more ingredients and served with curtido (cabbage slaw) and salsa. We tried the loroco sopes (loroco is small, green flower buds that are used for flavoring in Central America). They’re fantastic!

Oscar and the horchata — Oscar digs the horchata

Oscar declared that their homemade horchata ($3) was one of the best he’s ever had. “Every sip tastes like Christmas,” he said, thanks to the canela (cinnamon). The Romeros’ humble demeanor belies the accolades they receive from a huge range of visitors, and in just three years, they’ve become a Hudson institution.

Casa Latina Pupusas Y Más, 78 Green Street in Hudson, NY; (518) 653-1334. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm; closed Sundays.

The Authentic 518: Charming Small Towns on the Outskirts

November 17, 2021 By Cabrina McGinn

Brown’s Brewing Taproom in Hoosick Falls

Centuries before automobiles emerged as the singular mode of transport, the Industrial Revolution exploded upward from its epicenter of Manhattan, through the waterways that carve the landscape of Upstate New York. As a result of this rapid expansion, mill towns popped up along the creeks and streams that branch from the Hudson River.

Unlike many of the city centers in the Capital Region, the charming small towns in htis story haven’t been bulldozed for strip malls and high rises. Instead, they maintain the architecture and ambiance of the time in which they were founded. Lucky for us, they’re all just a short automobile ride away! So if you’ve ever had the urge to play out your Schitt’s Creek fantasy, or if you’re someone for whom ‘antique’ is a verb, plan your next day trip to one of these charming small towns!

Greenwich

Tour the amazing architecture all around the town square

Surprisingly, the town I hadn’t heard of before was the one with the most going on! Greenwich has some of the most beautiful historic homes in the Capital Region. Plus, there’s a bustling main street with restaurants, cafes, antique shops and craft stores.

Get your Christmas on at The Country Peddler

Formerly known as Whipple City, the town grew up around a cotton mill and continued to flourish until the mid 19th century. Be sure to take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhoods to see some of the best examples of 18th and 19th century architecture that Upstate New York has to offer.

There’s homemade white bread at Lynn’s Country Cafe

There’s great food and drink in Greenwich, too. Argyle Brewing offers tasting flights and food trucks. Nearby, Elsassers 111 offers Flammkuchen (German-style flatbread pizza). Stop into Greenwich Hardware to explore a selection of antique furniture and farming equipment, or to Wicked Wicks for handmade crafts, cappuccinos, and sip-n-paint classes. The Christmas Attic and the Country Peddler offer Christmas tchotchkes and fresh fudge year-round. And don’t miss Wallie’s, a Greenwich institution since 1929, serving patrons for almost a century in the heart of this beautiful village.

Your Greenwich Itinerary:

Kinderhook

Certainly the swankiest of the bunch, Kinderhook has drawn Michelin-star chefs, restaurateurs, and other impressive proprietors from New York City and Hudson in recent months. And, this small town was home to the nation’s eighth president, Martin Van Buren; you can still visit his estate house, Lindenwald, which is now a museum in his honor.

The food and architecture is awesome in Kinderhook. First, pop into the Saisonnier (French for farmhand) to enjoy some fresh beer and a delicious charcuterie board. Then, cross the town square to take a look at the Knitting Mill, a new project that will house several businesses in a renovated 1860’s knitting factory. The building is currently home to Morningbird and OK Pantry, with a restaurant, cocktail lounge, gallery, and apothecary line opening in the coming months. Down the street, Meghan Calcagno brings her family’s 150-year old bagel recipe from Brooklyn to Kinderhook with Broad St. Bagel Co. They’ve recently expanded to the spot next door with Focaccia Bakery, where they offer Old World Italian bread and pizza.

Your Kinderhook Itinerary:

Saisonnier
Broad St. Bagel Co. | Focaccia Bakery
DYAD Wine Bar
Cosmic Donuts
Morningbird | OK Pantry
Martin Van Buren Lindenwald

Hoosick Falls

The little village sits almost on the border of Vermont, just a hop, skip and a jump away from Bennington. The gazebo at the center of town is the spitting image of the one in Stars Hollow (the fictitious Connecticut town that serves as the backdrop for Gilmore Girls). Thankfully for us, the rest of the architecture in town follows suit.

View of the Walloomsac from Brown’s Brewing

Artists Norman Rockwell and Grandma Moses both lived in the area; their paintings are exhibited in museums around the world as examples of American Folk Art from Upstate New York and Vermont.

In more recent times, Brown’s Brewing brought fame to the area once more when they renovated a mill on the Walloomsac River. The beautiful spot now houses a brewery and full restaurant, drawing tourists from all over New York State. The Potter Hill Barn, a ‘primitive gift store’, is another classic Capital Region staple, operating for more than 25 years.

Meanwhile, young business Iron Coffee Co., has seen a booming clientele since launching their roastery in 2016. And, new favorite Hoosick Provisions is an absolute must-stop for anyone looking for their Rose Apothecary moment. You’ll find local cheeses, homemade pastries and regional produce, set against the backdrop of 19th century exposed brick.

Your Hoosick Falls Itinerary:

Schuylerville

Schuylerville is sometimes called America’s most historic village, because the Battle of Saratoga — known as the “Turning Point of the American Revolution” — was fought here. Later, in the 19th century, captains-of-industry arrived, harnessing the Fish Creek and Hudson River that made Shuylerville into a bustling township. Today, this quaint village remains a cultural hub of Upstate New York.

If you want good hikes and views of the waterways, Schuylerville is for you! Stop into Bound by Fate Brewing or The Basin Grill to enjoy a brew or bite on their beautiful patios overlooking the water. Then, get your steps in at Hudson Crossing Park and check out the beautiful Dix Bridge, a pedestrian bridge that crosses the Hudson River into Washington County.

Your Shuylerville Itinerary:

Schoharie

This charming village might be the Barn-Quilt capital of Upstate New York. On the main drag alone there are four businesses exhibiting large quilt-like signage on the outsides of their historic buildings.

As a result of its rural location, Schoharie is home to a number of regionally famous farms & farm stores. As a result, local produce, plants, prepared foods and artisan products abound. One of my favorites is The Carrot Barn, a Capital Region institution offering local produce and products from all over Upstate New York. (Surprise, surprise, the carrot cake is to die for). My family has been going to Wellingtons for years – run by retired couple Carolyn and Frederick. Their 45-acre farm offers landscaped gardens, artisan gifts and collectibles. And, there’s a tea room where Carolyn serves her signature gooey butter cake and island tea.

Generations, A Vintage Consignment Store

Stop by consignment shop Generations, which offers — dare I say it — the best selection of antiques that I’ve ever come across outside of the city centers. While you’re there, say hi to Ann, a lifelong Upstate New Yorker with years of stories and Schoharie history!

Your Schoharie Itinerary:

The Carrot Barn
Schoharie Valley Farms
The Apple Barrel Store & Cafe
Generations, A Vintage Consignment Shop
The Farmers Beef & Brew
Wellington’s Herbs & Spices

This article is presented in collaboration with Straight Upstate. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends.