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5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

Chef / Owner Griselda and her daughters

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco
Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

corn smut
Huitlacoche Huarache, aka “corn smut”

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

mole sauce
The sublime chicken mole

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

grasshoppers
Hand-carried grasshoppers from Oaxaca

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

Oscar has that “post-grasshopper” glow

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

Back to 5 Amazing Latin Restaurants Home Page

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Casa Latina Pupusas Y Mas, Hudson

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

casa latina exterior

At Casa Latina, everything — from the guajillo salsa to horchata (a sweet, cinnamon-flavored rice drink) to the soft, warm corn tortillas — is made on site.  A few blocks off of swanky, expensive Warren Street, Casa Latina is an affordable oasis. There are four indoor tables, outdoor seating, and a parking lot (a rarity in Hudson). Mexican paper decorations and Frida Kahlo portraits spruce up the funky, functional décor. And, the food is prepared in sight of the tables. You’ll see for yourself, the Romero family knows how to cook, and they know how to hustle!

Casa Latina
Javier, our waiter extraordinaire

Our super-friendly waiter, Javier (the son of owner/chef Maria), walks us through the menu. We ask what’s the specialty of the house, and he says everyone loves the tacos (it’s true, they’re fantastic). But tonight we’re looking for something less usual, so he tells us to try the sopes ($8), a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a fried masa base with savory toppings. You’ve got your choice of cheese, beans, pork, or steak. They’re hearty and heartwarming, and will keep you filled up on a cold winter’s day. One of the cehfs, Alberto, is from the Puebla region of Mexico, and these sopes are his specialty.

black bean sopes
Black bean sopes, $8
Make Sure to Try: The Pupusas

While you’re here, make sure to try the pupusas ($3-$4), too. What are they, you ask? Pupusas are a delicious corn masa flatbread and the national dish of El Salvador. Owner and head chef Maria Romero is Salvadorean, and these recipes are ones that her familiy has made for generations. The pupusas are filled with one or more ingredients and served with curtido (cabbage slaw) and salsa. We tried the loroco sopes (loroco is small, green flower buds that are used for flavoring in Central America). They’re fantastic!

Oscar and the horchata
Oscar digs the horchata

Oscar declared that their homemade horchata ($3) was one of the best he’s ever had. “Every sip tastes like Christmas,” he said, thanks to the canela (cinnamon). The Romeros’ humble demeanor belies the accolades they receive from a huge range of visitors, and in just three years, they’ve become a Hudson institution.

Casa Latina Pupusas Y Más, 78 Green Street in Hudson, NY; (518) 653-1334. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm; closed Sundays.

Cutting to the Hilt – The Craft of Blademaker Jordan LaMothe

December 5, 2021 By Corey Aldrich

As sometimes happens, mid-summer I found myself in the middle of Averil Park, NY, sitting outside a yurt in front of a large, pallet-fueled fire pit with my good friends Chris and Josh. We were enjoying a little Japanese whiskey when someone I had not met before rolled up to the group. A quiet and contemplative man who when opened up, revealed a whole new world of artisan craft to me. Meet Jordan LaMothe, an artisan blade maker.

Jordan LaMothe

Please introduce yourself and tell us a little bit about your creative life and craft?

I am a blacksmith and knife-maker based in Hebron, NY, and I make all manner of blades from chef knives to swords. My work is a continual balancing of form and function; to make pieces that are both highly effective cutting tools and elegant, visually pleasing objects. When I make a knife, I start with raw bars of steel from the mill, forge weld different alloys to create an intricate pattern, and shape the blade with hammer and anvil. I then transform that forged blank into a cutting tool: hardening and tempering the steel, and grinding and sanding the blade to refine the shape and edge geometry. I then fit a handle to the blade, carefully selecting the material and sculpting it for the desired visual and ergonomic effect.

Hot blades

How did you get interested in knife making? What special education / skill did you need to acquire?

I began blacksmithing at the age of fourteen in order to make tools and hardware for use on the family farm. In two years, I made my first knife. I was captivated by the variety of creative processes involved: forging, grinding, machining, woodwork, leatherwork. So, I joined the American Bladesmith Society and dove into the craft, reading books and online forum posts, experimenting in my own shop. Then I started bringing my knives to accomplished bladesmiths for their critique.

Custom scultpted blade

I imagine you are doing custom work for a lot of folks in the food industry. Has the pandemic had an effect on your business?

I am fortunate that the pandemic has not affected my knife sales in any noticeable way. Many of my culinary knife clients are avid home chefs, and that market has done quite well with so many folks working from home. However, several of the classes I was scheduled to teach in 2020 and 2021 were cancelled due to the pandemic.

Custom blade

With the proliferation of mass production in your industry, how do you differentiate yourself?

People buy my work because it has a story, because they like the aesthetics of my work, and because they trust me to create tools that will perform well and last a long time. A mass-produced knife is a completely different product and a different marke. There are some terrific mass-produced knives, but generally people are looking for something “good enough” for their particular needs. When you purchase a knife from me, you receive a piece that is truly unique and personal—something no one else in the world has.

Two blades

What are your long term goals with your craft? What would you like to accomplish?

My current goal in my craft is to broaden the variety of techniques that I can apply to my pieces. I am interested in doing more work with precious metals as well as inlay and engraving. I also want to do more research and documentation of historical swords and daggers in order to make pieces that remain faithful to the long traditions from which they descend.

sword

Any thing you would like us to know about specifically? Any upcoming classes or exhibitions?

In 2022, I am going to be traveling to Rajasthan, India, on a Fulbright grant in order to study koftgari: a technique for applying gold and silver onto iron that has been used for hundreds of years to embellish sword and dagger hilts. I will resume teaching classes and attending shows once I return in 2023.

Damascus blade


EDITORS NOTE: For more information or to contact Jordan directly about commission work or classes hit him up on these website or social media platforms:
Web: www.jordanlamothe.com
IG: @jordanlamotheblades

Up Close and Personal with DJ HollyW8D

November 17, 2021 By Corey Aldrich

I caught up with DJ HollyW8D recently to check in on the current status of the underground social scene and find out a little more about what makes this former Brooklynite-come-Upstate man tick. I believe I first met him at an event Cory Nelson was throwing back in the Troy Kitchen days but this is the first time we have got to have a little heart to heart.

Please introduce yourself! How long have you been a DJ and do you do it full time? Any other gigs you’re holding down to pay the bills?

My name is Mario Johnson, aka DJ HollyW8D. I am originally from Brooklyn, NY. I found my way to the Capital District to play football at Hudson Valley Community College. After that I graduated from UAlbany with a degree in Communications & Rhetoric. I started my DJ journey at WCDB 90.9 FM in 2016 and haven’t looked back since.

I have been a full time DJ since 2017. I incorporate different aspects into my lifestyle to help pay the bills such as teaching DJ lessons along with throwing events and helping other artists with their business and branding.

I know from personal experience that you bring a lot of excitement to an event. What’s your motivation?

My motivation is my mother who worked very hard to get me to where I am today. As a first generation US-born Jamaican descendant, I felt pressure to make my family proud. Besides wanting to be successful for myself it is also for my family and to inspire my peers.

Last year was rough for performers with limitations on live events. Has your calendar gotten back to
normal this year? How is it different?

Everyone was eager to get back outside so that helped a lot. Attendees being cautious post pandemic has still been a factor. Shifting to in person experiences and taking the brand digital has definitely helped out. Less venues want to take the chance of having large crowds within their space now.

How has the last year changed your craft?

Last year showed me how powerful having a digital footprint is within social media. From throwing virtualshowcases (@Hous3chella : Instagram LIVE) to teaching virtual DJ lessons. These days, you must never leave a stone unturned.

Any upcoming events you would like to plug?

I started doing a lot of collaborations on events this year, Friday November 12th I will be co – hosting an ‘All About My Business’ networking event at the ground up cafe in Albany, NY. The event is black and brown focused but open to all who are looking to increase their circle of like minded individuals.

Additionally, I will be bringing some energy to this month’s Etrice Gallery opening in Downtown Albany. ‘HIATUS’ will be on Saturday November 20 th featuring Albany artist Jalaun Taylor. Roll in, network and feel the vibes. “It`s more than music…and I am more than just a DJ.”

EDITORS NOTE: Keep an eye out for the ongoing series of variety themed events across the Capital Region that Mario curates called ‘More Music Less Violence.’
LINKTR.EE: /Hollyw8d
FB / IG: @DJHollyW8D

Saratoga’s Beekman Street Arts District – It’s a Vibe

October 18, 2021 By Cassie Fiorenza

When you think of Saratoga Springs, you probably picture horses and the bustling Broadway. You’re not wrong, but there is so much more to this adorable “city in the country.” One such place is the Beekman Street Arts District. Boasting some of the best restaurants and coolest shops in Saratoga, Beekman is still a bit off the beaten path. Just a few blocks from Broadway, you’ll find a different vibe; unpretentious, artsy, creative, and a little weird – but in the best way.

The Arts District sits in Saratoga’s historic West Side (west of Broadway). This area was home to the Irish and Italian immigrants who worked on the Railroad (in fact, there’s a sign declaring this area “Dublin”), and African Americans when there weren’t many other places for them to go. Ask any Westsider and they’ll have memories of legendary pizzas and even some unsavory activities. About 20 years ago, however, this area was full of artists looking for a community, and they built one. If you’re looking for something different and authentic, come to Beekman. Here are just some of the highlights:

Collective 131

Collective 131, 74 Beekman Street

I started Collective 131 online in my Hoboken apartment (131 was my address) to feature women artists. When I moved back Upstate, I opened my first brick-and-mortar. I saw an ad for 74 Beekman and instantly felt like this was the right spot. The airy, light space was totally my vibe and I loved the authentic feel of Beekman Street. Here, you can find local and regional artists in a range of media and subjects — but all affordable. Our price range is around $20 to $300.  It’s also important to me to showcase women and minority makers. Aside from art, I LOVE fun stationery and thoughtful gifts, like our Schitt’s Creek birthday cards and ceramic ring dishes and tote bags.

Grateful Threads

Grateful Threads, 30 Beekman Street

The new kids on the block, Grateful Threads owners Noah and Hunter have a ridiculous inventory of vintage tees, jerseys, and hats. They have a huge online following, and people are flocking to their new brick-and-mortar for these awesome finds. They definitely bring a fun vibe to Beekman with their ever changing cardboard cut-outs out front like Shaq and Dale Earnhardt. Hunter loved the Beekman Street Art Fair in June, and hopes we can host more events like that during the year. 

The Vintage Shop

“Beekman is where the one-of-a-kind speciality shops are. It made more sense for me to be here than on Broadway.” Walking through Denise’s The Vintage Shop at 65 Beekman Street is like walking through time. Here you’ll find a trove of vintage designer clothes, accessories, and even a few oddities. Her forte is sourcing quality, maintained pieces, and she’s a perfectionist when it comes to cleaning. Think vintage Versace jeans, Ferragamo shoes, Pendleton sweaters, and so much more.

Little Darling Studios

Nicole Darling of Little Darling Studio

Nicole Darling is the tattoo artist behind Little Darling Studios. She opened her own studio and chose artsy Beekman Street for her location. “I absolutely love Beekman. Not only am I the owner of Little Darling Studios, I am a very unique tattoo artist and a wedding photographer,” says Nicole, so she fits in perfectly in the Arts District. Follow her Instagram to see her in action and her amazing creations. She also sells her own branded candles! 

Living Resources Arts 70 Beekman Gallery

Marcus Anderson, Living Resources Arts

This studio and gallery serves the community in so many ways. Part of the larger Living Resources organization, Marcus Anderson and his staff provides fine art instruction to students with disabilities. The artwork created is also on display at all times in the gallery. “It’s great to have a community art space for them to exhibit and work side by side with emerging and established artists from the community. The Arts District is important because we make one another stronger through teamwork,” says Marcus.

Eden Compton 

Eden Compton, courtesy Saratoga.com

A leading fixture of the arts district, Eden Compton has had her gallery and studio on Beekman Street for several years. Her first studio was at 74 Beekman (where Collective is now!), and she’s now at 73 – a lovely yellow building with an inviting porch. Her specialties are cityscapes, landscapes, and portraits, and Eden displays her own work for sale inside along with the art of other local and regional artists. She is also a skilled teacher, offering painting classes and workshops to art lovers of all ages and abilities. She can’t wait to regularly have shows and openings like in the good old days (pre-COVID).

“I love Beekman Street because of the warmth of the community. It feels like a neighborhood and is a lovely respite from the hustle and bustle of Broadway.”

Textile Studio

Beekman pioneers Frittelli & Lockwood

Cecilia Frittelli and Richard Lockwood are master textile artists. I could spend hours watching the duo weave on their traditional looms in this adorable studio on the corner of Beekman and Grand. They are some of the original pioneers of the Arts District, opening their studio in the early 2000s in this historic 1850 building on the West Side. Frittelli and Lockwood textiles are found all over the country at galleries and craft shops, including Saratoga’s own TOGA HERITAGE. They also sell apparel and accessories out of their studio and online. “After many years behind closed doors as a production studio, we welcomed being part of an arts community,” Cecilia said.

Kraverie

Korean BBQ and crepes might sound like an odd pair, but trust me, it works. Michael Gasser is the owner and he and his family have a long West Side history. “Come to Beekman and hit the Kraverie trifecta: Korean BBQ, craft beer, and live music,” says Michael. My personal favorites are the sweet and spicy gochujang chicken wings and the kimchi fried rice. And of course, finish your night with a delicious crepe.

The Local Pub and Teahouse

The Local, 142 Grand Street

It’s an Irish tradition to call the neighborhood pub “the local,” so this bar and restaurant fits perfectly in this historic “Dublin” area. “We pride ourselves on our draft diversity and quality,” say The Local Pub and Teahouse owners Jonathan Haynes and Michael Phinney. With its mix of traditional pub fare and a rotating tap, you’ll find a comfy place to sit with family, friends, and your loyal pup. A customer favorite is the classic Fish ‘n Chips. 

Principessa Elena Society and the Frederick Allen Lodge

The area’s history is preserved by the Principessa Elena Society and the Frederick Allen Lodge. Nicknamed the “Black Elks Club,” the Frederick Allen Lodge #609 is the local chapter of the Improved Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks of the World. The Lodge remains open for events, workshops, and other charitable initiatives. The Principessa Elena Society was founded in 1900 by Italian-American men to assist the Italian immigrants that came to Saratoga. Today, they support the community with charity and scholarships, and host Italian Friday Dinners. 

ABOUT ME

Cassie Fiorenza is the owner of Collective 131 on Beekman. Originally from Loudonville, Cassie and her husband moved upstate in 2020 and settled in Saratoga Springs.

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